Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me

TOPIC:

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 5 months ago #18015

  • StanG
  • StanG's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User is blocked
  • User is blocked
  • Posts: 2118
  • Thank you received: 248
Biltonjim - I'm scratching off more of the paint off the cylinder block. Some areas are stronger, but that area in the previous photo just keep peeling off. My fingers are black just like if I was digging in a chimney. That's definitely not right. Overall, the surface looks more like covered in powder than anything else. Very weird. Kind of like if I dusted the whole thing with charcoal powder. It must come off.
In the meantime, I painted the front brake calipers black. Still fresh, but solid! I used engine enamel rated 500 F (260 C).
I also checked on the center stand painted a few months back. Very very strong.
I am going to wait a few days to make sure the calipers had their time to harden. Then I will post photos of putting them together with the kits I already have.
Yes, the engine paint subject is very frustrating... To say the least. On top of that, some brands are available in the UK, some in the US but not Canada, and so on. I heard good and bad about 2K paints. I went to Lordco (a local automotive store) and they told me they will make it a color I like. I got confused. I thought they come in cans like everything else?.. I think 500F is enough for the engine. I will give it a shot at the mentioned PJ1 paint. But now have to get that current 'powder' off... I don't even want to think of it....

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 5 months ago #18017

  • Kawboy
  • Kawboy's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Sustaining Member
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 2998
  • Thank you received: 1030
If this issue happened to me, I would fire off an email to VHT and explain what I had done and the end result and ask for an explanation. It could be a bad batch of paint, or maybe that particular paint does require a heating process to accomplish the end result. Only VHT can answer this.
They may have a better product for your engine parts that's designed expressly for that application. At the very least, sending them an email will make them aware of the issue. Who knows, they may offer to "make this right" for you and send you enough product to do your whole engine. Most companies especially in this day and age will invest in a client with problems and hope that the end result is that you as the client chat the company up on "Facebook, Twitter etc." and that kind of advertising goes a long way in this day and age.

Good Luck !!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 5 months ago #18022

  • scotch
  • scotch's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Sustaining Member
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 1891
  • Thank you received: 832
Hey Stan - I have to agree with KB. Contact VHT ! Nothing to lose.

Going to play Devils Advocate here. So far I've never seen my engine oil temperature rise above 70c. Coolant temperatures remain within the operating range of the gauge. My point is - Why do we need paint rated at 500F? My cam cover was painted in Black-Wrinkle years ago. Even when the bike is HOT the paint is hard as rock.
One could debate the temperatures immediately behind the headers but I have this "gut" feeling that any quality paint, once cured, will remain intact, even in these areas. Naturally, surface preparation with general-use paint, would be no less critical then if using "rated" paints.
If the Paint you are using is not defective then there must be a conflict chemically between the paint and perhaps the cleaners used to prep. the surface. When I recently rebuilt my front calipers it took 4 full days in a warm shop for the "rattle-can" gloss black to cure enough to handle. The paint seems bullet-proof, now.
Hope this provides some potential for figuring out what went wrong. :(
This past weekend I touched-up some small chipped areas on the front of the engine cases. Used a 3/8" fine bristle artists paint-brush to apply Silver "Rust-Oleum" paint. The match is good. Had the areas been larger I would be putting a clear coat on top, but will leave as is with just the silver paint. Not suggesting this is "the' paint to use - just trying to stimulate the brain for alternative solutions and to perhaps resolve the problem by thinking sideways.:side:
Perfect? Hell no, but adequate for the intended result.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
Attachments:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by scotch.

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 5 months ago #18033

  • zed_thirteen
  • zed_thirteen's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • Posts: 528
  • Thank you received: 137
Hi Scotch,

What is that in the middle of your front engine mounting plate?
1980 KZ1300 B2 Touring/A2
1990 ZZ-R1100 C1

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 5 months ago #18034

  • StanG
  • StanG's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User is blocked
  • User is blocked
  • Posts: 2118
  • Thank you received: 248

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 5 months ago #18035

  • scotch
  • scotch's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Sustaining Member
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 1891
  • Thank you received: 832
Re: front engine mount mystery part.

It's a flanged bushing that was intended for something that was later abandoned. I decided to leave it.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
The following user(s) said Thank You: zed_thirteen

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.142 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum