TOPIC:

In conclusion, I think even the old original gasket could work with applied liquid sealant as suggested by another member before. But why would you cheap out on this and risk a failure? The generic set - maybe good as well. But the generic set's head gasket doesn't appeal to me. Made from the same material as gaskets for head lid and alternator covers. The o-rings will get used though, somewhere. I don't think they are Viton. But it's just my speculation as I have no data. The coolant seals on the last Kawasaki head gasket are plump and playable, and solid. I would strongly suggest biting the bullet and getting one of these after spending a fortune on servicing the top end.
Got the four o-rings for the cylinder block bottom today as well. I am almost set! Except I can't this f^^%(&'ng swing arm off. And those shaft bolts connecting to the engine, covered with the damn rubber need a Godzilla to undue!!!! So I am stuck not being able to remove the engine from the frame. At least sprayed some Kroil today.
It will happen..

Recent progress update. More visually motivational than of big significance at the moment. One thing is solved though and I am glad.

I had 7/8" handlebar grips sitting around for more than a year. I ordered black ones but received chrome plated. I asked the seller for a refund and wanted to send them back, but the seller offered sending me the correct pair for half price if I kept these. It was 12 bucks I think. I said yes feeling there is a bigger plan to it.

So.. today I pulled them out. I did some fitting and filing, and voila! I have the handlebar grips done, all shiny to match the polishing theme!

It was easier than I thought. I filed the external surface to smaller diameter and that's all. About 15 minutes of work.



A mock up of the almost complete handlebar. I am starting to feel like I do have a motorcycle!..
The master cylinder is only half way done though. I bead blasted it, and have the new seals repair kit and soon getting a new dust boot to replace the current torn one. I still need to re-sleeve it. That's still in progress and at the gathering information and resources stage.



The throttle cables - forgot which is in and which is out. The longer elbow one is broken, but I need both anyway. The 'good one' is just too rusty. They are not a bank breaker anyway, so why not get a pair.

Advise needed. These calipers are original, cleaned, bead blasted, and ready for the next stage. Keep them clean aluminum, polished with rust aircraft protection, or paint them?
People keep vintage calipers bare aluminum, and they look great. I bet many of them sit in museums, while mine will be ridden

I just rebuilt mine and beaded them too. I chose to repaint them gloss-black instead of the factory matt-black. I like the way it ties into the black forks and the gloss finish ties in with the rest of the decor. I was too lazy to tackle the polishing which has it's challenges.
Post some pictures of your polishing progress !
Thanks stan

On the subject of throttle cables, most bikes of the 1300's era have two of them. However, my 1978 Yamaha XS Eleven only had one, and the throttle action was beautifully smooth and light. I can understand why two cables were the more often used fitment, but if the throttle did stick open, there is always the kill switch.

Regarding the calipers, Stan, I am with Scotch - I would re-finish in black, though I'm unsure what type of paint / finish to use

Alright. You guys convinced me - gloss finish it is. There will be no polishing of the calipers Scotch