TOPIC:

Another small step with the engine. Masked the cylinder block and ready for painting. Just waiting for the right conditions. I talked to the local machine shop and they use the same paint without the heat curing as stated on the can label. I will paint and place it against the heater to absorb all the BTU's. I've been told by the pros that these paints (VHT, by PlastiKote or other high temperature available brands), worked well in their pro applications. Lots of discussion about it, use primer on not, this brand or that, and I am going to go with my common sense suggests and I am sure the engine will not melt away! A few years down the road, if I don't like the look, it will give me another chance to take a closer look at 'the baby' and give it another make over. I just might like it in fluorescent green at that time!!

Going to look good when done, Stan. Hope you polished those "frost-plugs"

Yes Scotch, of course

StanG wrote: What I said might apply more to the water pump gears. In case of the tensioner, looking again at the wear from the chain, it crossed my mind that plastic is used just for this very reason - to accommodate wear and prolong proper function. Instead of the chain deteriorating and needing replacement, it's easier and cheaper to replace the sprocket than the chain. Any wear which shows on the nylon sprocket would otherwise affect chain if a steel gear was used, or further affect and wear the gear on the cam shafts. So, perhaps this non-metallic sprocket was used specifically to absorb wear in order to prolong life of the the whole set up, make accurate tension adjustment possible over a longer period time, and to protect other more expensive parts as mostly cam shafts, and the chain itself.

If cam chain wear concerns were a factor in the decision to use a plastic idler gear, wouldn't the metal crank and cam gears, which are under enormous loads compared the the idler, be a much bigger concern? I suspect Kawasaki used a plastic gear because it's used in a low load capacity, and it was much cheaper to make than a metal gear. I also think the Kawi Engineers underestimated how hot the engine would run and the detrimental effects of that heat on the plastic gear(s). Kawasaki made the same mistake with the Plastic Oil Pump Gear on Early 1500 Vulcans which caused widespread engine failures due to lubrication starvation.

Of course I am just speculating. No doubt any metal on metal contact creates friction and wear, and a healthy one at it, up to a certain point of course. Adding to that, I threw in the mix a simple idea of how a ship's hull is being prevented from rusting - by creating a weak link which will absorb the damage protecting the vital parts. I have no particular scientific knowledge about these bikes based on their history and actual research. That chain bounces around. There will always be some sort of play and thrashing force and the applied tension brings it under control, in order to keep clearances within the best optimal numbers to assure the best performance. The forces at the cam sprocket have to go somewhere. Action and reaction, we all know it. A softer easier to wear and adjust than in the event of having or rigid set up would make sense. Maybe that's why they came up with having this composite instead of raw steel gear? No authoritative idea here, but it doesn't sound to me as straight forward explanation, as one would think. Unless backed up by actual technical research papers. I am coming form a ship engineering background, where certain things were designed to absorb and fail in order to keep other parts live longer. Does it apply to these bike? No idea. But, it plants a question in my mind.

Adding to the memo fo my gasket searchings...

This is a comparison of four head gaskets I have. Top one taken off the bike. Surfaces look actually incredibly good. Except the missing, and no surprise, squashed seals around the coolant passages.



Next is the gasket which came with a full gasket set from eBay. No idea what it's made from, but the general sealing surface is exactly from the same material as all other gaskets in the set. It's overall not as rigid as Kawasaki and no surface stickiness present. Another thing is usage of copper instead of steel as in the OEM gaskets.





Third one - off eBay. Came damaged - the white sealing silicone (I assume) lines peeled off. Steel and copper used. Got refund for damage.



Last one - got it through Kawasaki dealership. All rigid and all water seals solid. The gasket has all steel and the surface of the gasket is tacky like if it has been coated with a film of silicone or some other adhesive. This is a second one I got and both are exactly the same and fresh. I had to recall the first one because it had a wrinkle from being bend. These are expensive gaskets at abut $165 Canadian dollars plus taxes, no need to take chances.