1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild

StanG wrote: ...... Already planning on how the heck will I move the bike... It will be tricky. Has to be solid and safe. Any ideas?

Stan: let me know if you need help when it comes to moving time.

Thank you Bucko, much appreciated.

A deserved update. Not exactly what would complete the work flow, but I hope an interesting one.

The exhaust collector got painted with PJ1 high temperature exhaust paint. First, I sand blasted it, then applied POR-15 metal solution to get rid of any residue rust and apply an etching coat of zinc rich layer. Rinsed and dried, the PJ1 spray paint applied.

The PJ1 nozzle/can got plugged. Not happy. Nothing works. Contacted them and was told they will get back to me but hasn't happen aftyer 24 hours. Complained to Fort9, with 3/4 of the can still full and useless - I bought from them.

Got enough coverage that I feel for now I am comfortable to install the pipes. Treated with high temperature hair dryer, everything holds up fine. Once I get a replacement from Fort9 I will spray on the body again. Right now I have a half assed 1.5 coat. All seems to be sealed, so no worries.

Next - the pipes.

Installed the two 1 and 6. That' easy. I got the 1-6 marks on pipes disappear when chrome plating, which baffles me why, but what the hell. Maybe I ended up with extra thick chrome layer. That wouldn't be bad.

So, I went trough hell trying to fit blindly by trial and error with what I had. Got it sorted, but not without cursing!!!!

Note to take: do not tighten anything until all bolts nuts and screws are attached and turn freely. Apply a good amount of copper anti-seize compound on all surfaces. Don't worry all gets red - wipe it off later.

Be careful tightening. These are OLD parts. They might have internal structural weakness due to age. If something breaks - don't panic. It is replaceable or removable, and replaceable.

One collar just broke easily. Need to get another one..



I suggest using 1/4 drive because it's thinner. It will go in between, which you can't do with 3/8 drive.





All is good except I need to order that broken collar.



Wipe the pipes off after install, don't worry about copper glitter:

Word of improvement - and I should have mentioned it first.

Cut off this center stand cross bar! Confirmed by Scotch, it is proven to be strong and reliable without it. The difference - it will make replacing the pipes 100% easier.
If not sure - cut it off leaving one inch long tubes attached. Keep the cut off piece, find an adequate length bolt, and feed it through for a removable tension structural toughness solution. I will do that eventually, but I don't see any urgency.

I actually went whack with removing this piece without giving a more in depth thought because of frustration spending a god damn hour trying to fit the 1st cylinder cluster in between the oil pan and the center stand. I cut it off not exactly as I would want to after giving a second look, but I got that pipe installed in 2 minutes. Cut it straight leaving about an inch attached. Just cut it off, don't second guess!