TOPIC:

Don't think the choke-enrichening mod can do any bad, quite the opposite given the suspicion of lean running

I meant it not in relation to running, but just using the choke as I am not familiar with let's say ZZR11 or other bikes that display this. Those I have are more subtle.
Perhaps it means my bike is sharp! haha That's a good thing.

Just to make sure you understand the mod. It's not enriching the mix but per se, as I understand it, but rather increasing the vacuum and drawing the initial fuel. I think best is to leave it to scotch to explain this, which I am sure will happen soon!

PS. Great to have a reply box resizing again. Such a small thing, but makes things exponentially easier! But the simple to click 'bold' command disappeared... There is no 'italic' as well. Give an take?

Understood thanks Stan.

I was only referring to the choke mod 'crudely' in that by restricting the air flow and increasing the vacuum it's drawing more fuel and sooner in timing terms, but you're right that may not be the same as traditional enriching.

Does sound like a very good mod!

restricting the air flow and increasing the vacuum it's drawing more fuel and sooner in timing terms

Correct ! Nothing to do with the actual "Running Mixture" which is determined by the Metered air and the idle jets.
The Choke System is effective, albeit simple. Raise the choke-lever and the choke plungers rise with a relationship to the throttle-plates being opened, also. The Fast-Idle cam deals with the opening of the throttle-plates in relation to the additional fuel being supplied by the choke system. The fast idle adjusting screw sets the point when the choke-plungers lift in relationship to the "cracking" of the throttle-plates. This is normally a sensitive and somewhat critical adjustment without the Choke-Air mod.
So in a "nut-shell"; The choke system is sensitive but With the mod, not so much. With or without the mod - NEVER walk away from the warming-up bike with the Choke ON. The RPM's can suddenly "Run-away" as things warm/loosen-up !

When warming up, I pull push the choke down. It skyrockets the rpm, and usually I miss the sweet spot. Restart the engine then with a little blip and pull the choke lever up, with a little play it finds the about 1500 rpm spot and hums away steady until the temperature needle goes a bit up, and all the 'cold engine noises' go away. Push the choke down, and it's just smooth engine and idle.
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I consider this normal and simply an idiosyncrasy of the design. Until the oil temp. increases and decreases the piston "drag", some "choke" is required. (in my case, about two minutes). With a "new" engine, finding that "sweet" spot after the initial start, will take some getting used to.
And Stan........ Something else to consider is the air-density. Where I live, the altitude is 1140' ! Remember how your G.W. ran less then optimal on the Coquihalla !! (Highway Thru Hell")
I can appreciate your concerns about the plugs and the "sensitive" choke but try not to over-analyze things until the engine is broken-in. From my perspective everything sounds correct.
Something else I just considered: You've also got a freshly "sealed" tank that has probably been air tight since the original curing time. Put a few more "tanks" thru the engine to ensure any "Off-Gassing" isn't affecting the fuel burn. (this may not be the case - may be totally incorrect .... but it seems a logical thought.)
Next oil change put in 6 new plugs........and see what they look like after a couple of hundred more K's.
and.......Your OPENING throttle cable should have a very slight amount of slack, before it starts to open the throttle-plates. This ensures the linkage is resting on the idle speed adjusting "stop" and not being held "tense" by the cable.

I can appreciate your concerns about the plugs and the "sensitive" choke but try not to over-analyze things until the engine is broken-in.

Nah, I'm actually not really concerned, haha Just thinking aloud and following up on comments. I have a similar approach scotch - it's a new engine etc. in a way, but not off a production line and it's more complicated. It's 'kind of new', since all that's inside the crank case, including the shaft and rods, have not been touched so they are already well broken in, while the rest is a new environment. The engine itself will change with time, the whole bike will as the components interact with each other. The internal and external operational tensions will make parts 'find its places' over time, and not only the cylinder head nuts require tightening but other bolts and screws here and there s well.
The cables and linkages, clutch for example, the gears will interact again, the engine, they will 'correct themselves' to what they like best - applying to the whole bike, with a grain of salt, the rule of the free enthalpy always heading towards zero.

Saying above, it's just good and interesting to watch what's happening. My bike is fine overall, but in another case one could discover a serious issue this way. It's just good to keep monitoring without loosing too much sleep over it.

So, cleaning the plugs for now and changing them for new at one point is a good suggestion - new oil, new start, new point of reference.

Regarding the relined fuel tank. I did consider that actually as well! haha At first, I thought I would rinse it with fuel before use. Then I thought - would it really make a difference? I kept it secure from dust but open. And after months like that, it still stank! If anything, I thought, the fuel would just mask the sealant smell. So, I decided that it will go on the bike, and 'correct itself' with fuel changes and temperature change cycles. Nothing has been said about special treatment after letting POR-15 cure, at least I'm not aware, so if anything like off-gassing occurred, it would quickly go away. After all the product is made for fuel tanks and proven to be a solid product.

Yesterdays short ride was smoother on a few levels. The gears change smoother (how many times can I
use the word 'smooth' in correlation to the KZ1300?? LOL), and the clutch cable and what it is attached to, lol, seem to find their sweet spot.
Also, the turn signal switch suddenly became easy to push and pull! It was totally rebuilt, but kind of stiff until now, but now no more!
I think it's a good example illustrating the process of the bike's braking in, and how things change behind the scenes.

The sun here is coming out and from I gather it should be fine this afternoon. Once the roads dry, I'll be off to put a few more miles on the beast

Another day, another dry few hours, another 20 miles. A few new thoughts.

I had a concern because the bike started smoking blue on start up, from both pipes equally. I know they have a reputation for oil consumption, bu t a 'new bike'?
On the other hand, things are getting tighter as it brakes in. Yet, the oil got quite dark and contaminated within the first 50 miles - brown with dark brown and shiny specks in it.
As I removed the right cover, I understood what they were. The chrome plating place plated the inside of the cover, despite clear instruction not to do it. Oh well, after puting it all together everything was smooth. But, upon inspection, I saw the shaft 'smoothen out' the hub where it goes inside, some chrome and nickel came off. So, that's where those tiny shiny specs came from. The brom specks - pieces of rust that was hiding, and the overall darker brown color - rust and whatever was there and I couldn't remove. Oil changed, another 200 miles, and not a single speck of contaminant in the oil! ( I think I am repeating myself, but I had to when painting the picture)

Back to the smoke on cold start. Choke all the way up, start with the first crank, the engine picks up the speed. Needs more air - choke a bit down. RPM's go up and up by almost a second, so I back off, trying to find the 'sweet spot'. A bit of blue smoke starts coming out. I wait another 30 seconds - about maybe 2 minutes until now from cold start. Seeing smoke getting thicker by now, shut off the engine. Push the choke all the way down. Press the 'run' button, starts immediately with a throttle blip. I ease off the throttle while lifting to choke - it picks up the rpm's nicely,I find the 'sweet spot', the engine of course still cold but hums away like like a bunch of kittens. This takes just a few seconds and - ALL the smoke disappears immediately.

I had a concern that the impurities in oil after the first 'rinsing' of the engine and transmission caused some seals damage. I am convinced now that everything is just fine. There is never ever any smoke of any kind coming out during operation, and after keeping it parked for a few hours the same day and starting again.

The ride was great. The bike seems to improve 'jumps', for no better word for it. Operates as I remember it, then suddenly sort of goes up another level and it feels more 'sorted out'. Seems like it does the braking in in stages.

I already tested the horns on some a-hole driver, and it's loud! I think having even just one is plenty. Although I will be installing another one.

Here a photo of the two Honda horns.



Changed the differential oil - looked very gray. So, now after rinsing it soaks in brand new clean 80W-90 Yamalube oil Next change after braking the bike in - all fluids will be changed.

As I mentioned before, the turn signal switch also suddenly became very smooth. So, I flipped the black button and voila! - the automatic cancel works flawlessly!

What else... There is no leaking from the water pump hole. There were a few lonely drops at first. The shocks keep air pressure nicely. The tank smells like gasoline
Both brakes are strong, no leaks. Clutch and gear changes are smooth getting smoother with each ride. No problem finding neutral.

Oh, when inspecting the spark plugs the other day I dropped two from on the ground from my lap sitting on a chair. Bike ran on five cylinders next day. I thought - the plugs?
Correct! The plugs are so sensitive! Reading somewhere on the forum about failing plugs, I thought maybe someone shook or dropped one as well? I didn't want to guess, I bought a set of six and changed them so all plugs are new again. A set of six cost about CAN $20, the bike and the peace of mind mind deserve it.

Next: readjust the throttle (add a bit more free play). Check the air/fuel ratio mix. At one point, also revisit synchronization.
Also, check the compression - should have done it for the record before first start, but that's OK.

The bike looks superb in that photp, Stan. It's a good camera angle. I can't get over how good that hulking great engine looks in the black finish.

When riding the bike, what do you hear? Is it just a whining of the gears, or the exhaust, or engine sounds?