TOPIC:

I am keeping the rpm's under 4000, and not pushing the throttle much as well with acceleration, so the I haven't heard that Formula 1 big sound yet. The exhaust is mainly to hear on low rpm's, very distinctive but overall quiet. And of course when idle - standing behind the bike especially. When riding, it's mainly the engine, and some of the gears. The gears I hear mostly on deceleration, braking with the engine.

Yes, I totally agree Biltonjim. With all the chrome and polished parts, this engine in black is my definite favorite. There are lot's of 'extras' around the engine, and on the frame, they create a really nice contrast. I know it's a modern bike 'thing', but the chrome on black really fits the massive KZ1300's presence. I also like the covers and the tank just like they are - plain simple ebony black.

Went for another ride today, and had another cold start. This time I paid even more attention trying to develop a start up procedure that will have minimal number of steps, as well the best to my liking timing for them.

I kept a close eye on that smoke I mentioned earlier, and here is what I've noticed and what my opinion is. I think the oil is not an issue, and I am glad all is just fine and tight. The smoke has to do with applying the choke only, when the starter plungers are activated so in the upper choke lever position. As soon as I open the butterflies a bit to add some air and keep the engine idling, that's when the smoke comes out. Turn off the engine, start with plungers deactivated and only the butterflies open - no smoke, not a trace of it. So, I can't think of anything else than a direct connection of the activated plungers interactions with the carburetor at start up. The carb has the scotch's vacuum start mod. I have no idea what would be like without the mod, so I can't really compare or further comment on this. The engine starts and runs great, a few puffs of smoke for a few seconds - I can live with it. But I could breath better without it! LOL Since there is nothing else out of the ordinary in the carbs, it makes me wonder if the mod is a good one for a newly serviced top end, in comparison to the documented cold start improvement on older engines? Scotches has about 190 thousand km, right Scotch? Mine has about 680 km. Perhaps there is no need for a stronger draw, and that's why they were designed this way not another, without a long term research into what will they behave like at 200K. I bet Kawasaki predicted some in depth service taking place before 0 and such a mileage.

Stan what sort / colour of smoke is it on choke?
Does it remain the entire period of having the choke plungers lifted?

Your thinking it might be due to the quicker enrichment of the restrichted modded air passge, but I can't think what would differ in that scenario between a newer or older engine.

If (in either age case) the valves are sealing, the rings are sealing well enough (did you rebore or re-ring, can't remember) there's not much else that influences the combustion process.

Scotch's carbs sound as newly-serviced as yours, so it's interesting if he doesn't get the smoke as you say.
Of course there are potential differences in carb setup / tune, but if so that suggests yours could be tweaked to manage the smoke.

Time to comment ! Been mulling this over and wonder also if the "smoke" is from the rich start. Correct; in as much as mine has NO smoke when starting cold/full-choke as Stan pointed out but Yes - Stan's engine is "new". The curiosity however is that Stan's plugs showed no signs of soot on the perimeter of the plug-base! Just a nasty looking build up of....something!
There's no mystery to the start procedure but as Stan has pointed out he's having difficulty finding the "sweet-spot". Mine is sensitive also - As soon as the engine fires up (immediately) the choke lever must be reduced to about 1/2. Personally, I have no problem finding this happy medium. Start - reduce - Idle at 1000 ! It's important that the choke lever stays where it's positioned ! Stan's did when set-up but perhaps it's "loosened-up" and the 4 closing springs - one on the main throttle shaft and the three on the carb shafts - are making the lever position finicky if the lever-tension spring is inadequate to hold the position. .
So Stan - you have two options at this point. Leave as is and just get your choke-lever fingers trained or remove the mod and see what affect this has on the Start.
I think I just heard a Gasp, from the Coast !
Ya, the carbs must be removed BUT - all that needs to be done is remove the idle knob and the choke lever screw and the lids WILL flip UP. This will have no detrimental affect on the sync !
So.....let us know ?

Yeah, I've been just speculating only, as I have no idea, thinking what else is there? Plungers and mod.
For now I will live with it, not a big concern, and play with the choke more. I think I might be leaving it in that position for too long, so I will push the lever down much sooner following on your As soon as the engine fires up (immediately) the choke lever must be reduced to about 1/2. comment. I've been avoiding it because the rpm's go very high, thus I've been shutting off with a new start working the lever up from the bottom. I guess if I do it soon it want be as drastic and once pushing it down enough I will find that 1000+ rpm spot soon. Of course I haven't had 30 years practicing this, hell, not even 30 days! hahaha I deserve some slack

To the 'finicky' part, moving the choke lever is kind of tight, feeling the distinct 'curve points' quite stiff to get over them. And it's really very sensitive, unlike on my other bikes - smooth and with good tolerance adjusting the rpm's. That's where the mod also came to mind, as it would make sense thinking it make everything more responsive, as intended! Right?

I think it's good to mention now what Richard asked about. A new engine usually will have high and even across compression, and older engine might have some loss there and have it less even, especially when cold. The mod would address this by increasing the 'pull' vacuum, making it easier to start. The smoke has been blueish, but now I know it has to do with perhaps delivering higher than usual volume of the fuel-air mix for a newer engine with not start issues otherwise, while addressing it very well on older engines with such problems.

So yes, I am just leaving all as is and will practice my fingers more. I'd rather ride - when there is no rain. Speaking of which, the bike and me got 'baptized' yesterday in quite a violent way. I went for a ride and while it was dry, fine and even sunny around Vancouver, and no problems around Mission, on my way back passing Maple Ridge there was a very localized mass of clouds and the rain just pounded suddenly like if someone was emptying a bucket. I couldn't even ride. 5 minutes and I was completely soak. Rode eventually the bike to a gas station, after hiding under a tree, and had to wait an hour before hitting the road again in a bit lighter now rain. Not even ten minutes and I was out of the rain, roads dry, my completely soaked jeans were dry by the time I got home! Unfortunately the water in my shoes did not magically evaporate.

It was a strange day overall. Was told and lectured at the light stop that by some old prick that this bike is too big for me, called a stupid dumbass by another prick because the idiot didn't pay attention to the road and did not see my turning signals before I came into his lane (this happens often - despite having big lights on this and other bikes!). Then, there was a guy in the middle of nowhere standing by the road without a shirt. As I passe he kept staring at me with a middle finger and I reading his lips I know exactly what he was yelling. Looked in the mirror - he just turned around and went back into wherever he crawled out of. Bizarre!!! He looked like a nut case anyway, most likely high on something.

With this short anecdote and another confirmation that I will be keeping things as they are, have a good day!

The 1/8" brass tube ( and the silicone tubing to retain it) used for the choke-air mod was arbitrary. It fit and it worked, so the diameter was "lucky"? Would NOT consider anything smaller which would create an over-rich problem, I have no doubt. Because it works (80,000K) I have no interest in experimenting with a larger diameter. There could easily be a debate about this. From my perspective: Unmodified the carb'd bikes are a bitch to start after sitting for a period of time. With the mod, it's starts right away. So; INADEQUATE (no) choke fuel if the carbs are left as is, or obviously sufficient choke-fuel and quick starts with the mod. Could the 1/8" brass restrictor be providing too much choke fuel? If the choke is left FULL ON, definitely ! However, when the engine fires and the choke is reduced the cam-roller is now out of the cam "end-valley" and now riding at it's highest point on the cam which reopens the throttle-plates providing a suitable amount of air that allows for a strong cold idle. A couple of minutes of warm-up and the choke can be removed. Just like most manual chokes operate......if anyone can remember back that far !
I'll advocate this simple solution but won't beat ya'll over the head with it. If your preference is to kill the battery and /or use "Starting-Juice" not to mention the wear and tear on the starter and starter-clutch assembly, then you must decide for yourself. So please - (NOT directed at you, Stan! ) no whining about having to remove the carbs to do the mod. ! It's a lot simpler then replacing/rebuilding a starter and or the starter-clutch and costs pennies in comparison!

I actually think removing the carbs is probably one of the easiest straight forward 'serious' maintenance thing on this bike. I had a bitch of a time installing mine due to the new rubber boots. I think I struggled with it for three hours, and that's insanity. A good thing I am crazy, so I didn't give up, LOL But once those boots are on and keep the shape, it would be a breeze to put them back on. Removing is a breeze already. Once I have my other set assembled, I will switch them and compare. The most important think is everything is fine. And the plugs look fine.

Odometer says 420 miles. 80 more to go and I will be cranking the engine up to 6000 rpm with a clear conscience! With brand new oil in it. The new tires are already sticky