TOPIC:

Sounds like it's all OK Stan !
According to this we're doing it by the sticker.


That A/F "procedure" sounds more like a Colonoscopy

StanG wrote: On a side note, the refurbished petcock is getting extremely stiff. I matched an o-ring but I know it is a bit on a thick side.

Stan: Can't remember if I posted this before or not.....

The fuel tap on my Voyager was basically inoperable - initially due to the tap being full of crud but even when I cleaned it out and polished the internals it was still not operable while on the bike (i.e. while I was riding it). I ended up filing down the metal projection on the tap handle - where it fits into the slot of the plastic valve cone. With the pieces dissembled, I noticed the tap handle did not sit flush in the cone slot and actually rocked a bit. By filing down the tap ever-so-slightly, it fit better in the slot and reduced the pressure it puts on the valve 'cone' when assembled. It's still a bit stiffer than I like but it is operable while riding (with a little effort) and with no leaks.

Agreed Stan, if no smoke on cold start with no choke used, that's a good elimination test.
(my thinking was cold start also = bike standing = chance for oil to weep in from head with cold clearances).

Re your testing, there used to be a Gunsons exhaust gas analyser on the market years ago, £50ish I think, which used a 20cm tube up the exhaust, but no idea if it was accurate or not!

I have the identical AEM wide band O2 sensor to go on the bike and plan on a permanent mount. My thoughts were to install a weldolet bung on the collector of the pipe and measure the average of all cylinders. Some will be leaner than others possibly. It's an indicator and what info it provides needs to be considered for any changes. I think it will make a great tool for seeing how temperature and barometric pressure reacts with a set jetting and then we take it from there.
I'm still a long ways off. to tell the truth, if I spent as much time working on the bike as I do hammering out ideas on the computer, I'd probably be finished by now. Money is a bit of a concern. Keeping the wife happy is another. I also volunteer as a Building Director for a facility that keeps 800 of my neighbors happy ( www.shorespa.ca ). The work never ends and as a kid I was beaten to death if I got caught playing with toys when there was work to be done. Can't get past it.
I digress. @$#@!$##!

Today I have to change out a wheel bearing on the wife's Lincoln MKX. That will be the better part of the day.

A collective thank you guys.

I kind of had a Barney moment not getting another bung and welding them on each of the two collectors.
That was original my plan for the Vmax and that's why I got the sensor (only one collector so only one needed), but it would be hard without removing the exhaust or having the bike on a lift. So I just let it sit. And now, with the KZ exhaust sitting in front of me for months, sand blasted etc., why didn't I get another one and welded them on? They could stay plugged until tune up, or have the sensor connected to one and switch when needed. Why Andy wasn't around to put be in the right track? hahaha (for those who watch the Andy Griffith show)

The good thing is the collectors are easy to remove on KZ in comparison. I am not going to bother with it anytime soon, as I'd be also beaten to death playing instead of concentrating on more important vital stuff not just on the bike, but in my life! Thank you for your digress KB. I like things to have a perspective and a touch of personal story. I hate cut and dry attitudes, they create souless worlds.

So, I will be organizing myself for the bike's colonoscopy
It will be interesting to see the readings. The obvious thing is to have the sensor as close to the individual pipes as possible, close to the collector in this case. A good thing is the muffler has a wide enough opening. I just have to test how far can I go with the diameter of the sensor. The way it is it would go in about one foot only, and the gases in the muffler would be already heavily mixed. I think it's better to be close to the small diameter section where the collector connects to the muffler.

I will have to address this Bucko. It feels sometimes like I'd need pliers to turn it! I think it maybe seals too well? lol I got another one from eBay ($12, free shipping), so I will experiment with this one first. By the looks it also has the filter intact, so maybe I'll be lucky in many ways. I still will get another modern cut off valve for double security.

Hi Stan, re the petrol tap, I just tried to turn mine for the first time in months and it was jammed solid.(that after having turned smoothly all the times I fiddled with it previously)

I'd suggest a quick stripdown, as in my case there was a load of gritty gunk virtually blocking the entire prime passge out of the filter area into the rotating barrel.
(o-ring was fine)
Although this material all came out in a loose sandy manner it somehow instantly stopped the rotation dead in it's tracks!
Quick clean-up and flush through, greased with red-rubber grease and all back to good.