TOPIC:

This A/F sensor has been sitting on my shelf for two years maybe. Time to do something with it, and that is making a diy exhaust analyzer. Quite straight forward actually, just need to get a few small things. Stay tuned.

I think that would a first for this forum and the idea is outstanding ! Results will be very interesting !

I'm inclined to agree Scotch that it doesn't sound a cause,

but Stan also a question for you; blue-ish smoke suggests to me it's burning a little oil on startup, and this might just be 'coinciding' with the choke use as a little oil gets burned up within 30secs or so.
Your thoughts?

I'm inclined to agree Scotch that it doesn't sound a cause

Can you be more specific Richard?

Without much deep thinking, there might be some oil burning in any engines 36 years old. But I don't think that's the case here. Simply, after experimenting, nothing points directly to it after all. In simple terms. Cold engine, choke, smoke. Or, clod engine, no choke, no smoke. I can't see any other more significant contributor than what the choke creates.

Scotch, kind of disappointed you haven't done it yet! As they say, it's the small details that make a champion a master!
I just called Kawasaki and they said they are not equipped for checking real A/F ratio. Hmmmm.... As an idealist, I've been obsessed with needing one banjo per pipe. But that's juts plain silly. Just for the sake of an argument, following on your 'by ear' one by one adjustment listening to the overall sound, I can't see anything against real time A/F ratio reading adjusting one by one and checking the overall ratio. Makes sense! And that's what they use on a dyno. And it has to be more accurate! I just need to test how deep I can shove this diameter 'enema' and go from there. Cut and lengthen the wires, insulate, attach the sensor to a stick, wrap it in heat resistant blanket, connect red to a 10 A fuse an power and black to ground, insulate the other optional output ends, and voila.

On a side note, the refurbished petcock is getting extremely stiff. I matched an o-ring but I know it is a bit on a thick side. I need to address this and at the same time look for an extra inline shut off valve. I've seen some plastic ones with rave reviews. Any recommendations? (also good as a back up security device)

I just went downstairs and started the bike - cold start as cold it could be, at 13 degrees Celsius and sitting since last night. This time - all the way choke only for about 10 seconds to hear the engine start. Start again on choke almost all the way down, meaning no plungers involved. Just throttle. I had it idling at a steady about 1150 - 1200 rpm withing one minute. Or I'd rather say maybe 30 seconds? I really didn't time it. That's ALL! Waited 5 minutes it just idled as normal as a warmed up bike. Now, I know what you are waiting for - the elusive smoke. Indeed, NOT EVEN A TRACE!!!! Nada, zilch, I see nooothing!!!! I think we can put this bikes smoke, oil, and carb discussion to rest. No oil burning, bike cold starts and works great, but the applied choke makes some funky fuel/air/vacuum trick to it to make it come out. But, if it starts well even without it, who needs it!
Just a few turns with extra fuel at first, then go to the normal start up as if warm.

Good night folks.

Re: that A/F set up. Kawboy reading this, with your experience? Thinking of another option, which would make things easier perhaps. Stick a pipe inside the exhaust with the sensor at the outside end of if, instead of sticking the sensor as far as possible in side the exhaust. Yes, I know very well that the closer to the source the less 'contamination', but would it really make such a huge difference when done properly? (good seal). On the other hand, minute changes/impurities give inaccurate readings, and we are after accurate. I am leaning towards shoving the sensor as far as possible close to the collector, instead of shoving there a pipe with the sensor on the other end of it. Just thinking aloud, no need for lectures! hAHaha What would your thought be guys?