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Here you go Stan,

Never used it myself but seen a guy at the Stafford show who carried out a very convincing demonstration.

www.frost.co.uk/lumiweld-kits.html

I look convincing. It's really too bad I didn't see it before! I'd repair that little chip myself, especially it was just a cosmetic outside area that never has any stress.

Try this site for more info ( I bought my stuff 15 yrs ago and don't use it often )
www.alumiweld.com/

Pulled a few plugs and they all look pretty much like these after 300 km. Cleaned up and I'll see how they look later while the engine brakes in and everything, especially the piston rings, seals. I bet the blackinh oil residue from the fresh start, with initially plenty of engine assembly lube in the oil, will fade away. Is it a bit lean, what do you think?

I would tend to agree it's running hot. Not sure why. ??? It's carburetored and you left the jets stock. Normally that would indicate that the float level is set low since it effects all of the 5 circuits in the carb. Just throwing it out there for your consideration. Normally, if you want to read spark plugs, you need to get the bike up to operating temp then change out the plugs and run out the 1/4 mile like a drag race and chop the ignition and pull in the clutch and coast to a stop. Then pull the plugs and take a reading. It's hard to get a proper reading with normal driving and 300 km on the plugs. Just saying......

I.M.H.O.: You've used enough anti-seize to lube the torpedo doors on a submarine! Clean up the plugs or replace them and don't apply any more to the plug threads ! There'll be enough in the cyl-head threads to serve the purpose. Judging by what remained on the threads; some of the fouling may be due to the excess anti-seize that was pushed ahead of the plug ends.
Assessing the plugs at this early juncture may be pre-mature and misleading.. .