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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 2 months ago #21177

  • RChaloner
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Stan have you considered popping a Gunsons Colourtune in there?
Pretty cheap tool and gives very good illustration of whats happening dynamically?

Richard.
1979 KZ1300 A1
1999 K1200LT - now sold, I like them however was nearly as big as my X5 but no faster.

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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 2 months ago #21180

  • StanG
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Hi Jorgeno.

Next time my approach to my restoration would be very different. The most important is to know where you stand: funds, time, space, tools, helping hands, own transport. Some of these were very constraining in my case, and on top of that all kept changing, making me run in circles.
Of course, the direction of a work flow would depend on the bike's condition, body and engine.

Let's speak of not a specific bike but a bike similar to mine that needs all done. Having a safe garage with toolbox by the wall and a bench, I'd strip the whole bike down to just the frame, wheels and engine. Easily done on center stand. All exterior, exhaust, electrical etc. Next, if the engine needs to be taken apart, remove engine in frame piece by piece top end to bottom. It's just easier and lighter. Last, I'd remove the wheels and have a naked frame. While doing this, I'd early keep separating all parts for blasting and powder-coating, and have it all done as soon as possible. In the meantime, paint the tank and covers, put them on shelf. The engine crank case on a bench, I'd open it up and service, and service the block and head. I'd media blast all the engine components separate - just too heavy to carry unless you could soda blast it assembled in your driveway. I'd assemble the whole engine on a bench, and paint.
Next, tip the engine to the side and drop the frame over the engine, bolt on. Put it on center stand, install shocks and wheels. From there, it's just putting it all back together.

The most important would be to early start separating all the small and big parts for media blasting, powder-coating or painting, and chrome plating.
Done it quick, while having a fresh image of where they belong in mind. I'd take lots of reference photos and some notes of course, and keep parts in plastic bags and containers all well marked and cataloged.

Regarding my bike, from the perspective of time given my circumstances, I would had probably not gone for the complete shiny chrome plated painted powder-coated look. I'd just do as much cleaning as possible, refresh with some paint, clean, and put it all back together to ride. Settle for cheap after-market parts from China - headlight, turn signals, etc.
I'd dream of making it into what it looks like today one day in the future, and that would require a second total strip down. And that would be fine, when financially and otherwise. I just went in too deep to what you could say I decided is a point of no return, and went all the way, as much as I could, without a second guessing.

Richard, yes, I have the kit. It's just that it's not right on point accurate - there is a 'play' when you turn the screw without any noticeable difference to the color, so I wouldn't use it as a precise tune up tool. But good to take a peak inside for sure! I have an air-fuel ratio gauge and I am thinking about mounting it's sensor on a stick and shoving it up the exhaust to see what it reads. When the bike is broken in, I might take it on a dyno and have this checked and tweaked with there.
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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 2 months ago #21181

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I have the kit. It's just that it's not right on point accurate - there is a 'play' when you turn the screw without any noticeable difference to the color, so I wouldn't use it as a precise tune up tool.
An interesting comment and point regarding the Gunson Color Tune.
Until several years ago I tuned by ear. I picked up a GCT at a good price (only reason) and have used it enough times to agree with your comment. I've recently gone back to tuning by ear because of what I also consider to be too much latitude allowed by this tool. I think it's a great idea in principle but I find for myself that "the Ear" works best. So clearly I am not as "deaf" , as I can be accused of !
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !

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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 2 months ago #21185

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'Ear'?
Scotch can you explain what you'd expect to hear with 'white' plugs like Stans?

I don't see a hint of 'tan' on those, despite some 100s of Ks, but don't think anything flagged a concern to Stan?
(or I missed that sorry!)

Would you be looking for something like hesitancy on acceleration, or just a rougher idle?

I agree the colourtune isn't a dyno or 02 guage, but I would've expected tha degree of 'lean' to show as a weaker colour is my thinking.
1979 KZ1300 A1
1999 K1200LT - now sold, I like them however was nearly as big as my X5 but no faster.

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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 2 months ago #21189

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'Ear'?
Scotch can you explain what you'd expect to hear with 'white' plugs like Stans?

That's a fair question. I won't make any further comment regarding Stans plugs because of the few points already mentioned.......but:
Basically: I always set the mixing screws to 3.5 to begin. It's always been a good arbitrary starting point. Once the sync is done - I listen.
I then go across the carbs turning each one IN (one at time) until I hear the over-all idle, change. Leaning each one in this way also tells me that the idle-screw and idle circuit are functioning. If there's no discernible change in the idle then I know there's an issue. From the 3.5 turns I normally can lean the mixture about 1/2 turn to get an audible change. Then turn the mix-screw out until the idle smooth's. This usually (on my bike) puts the mixing screws at 3 to 3.25 turns. This gives me a plug color that I'm happy with !
With the "Gunsons", I find that the "range" is +/- 1/2 turn either way and have found I make further adjustments "by Ear", which for myself negates the usefulness and effectiveness of the tool.
While on the basic topic: The new idle-jets just installed made this procedure much more definitive AND, I WAS PLEASANTLY SURPRISED at the perceivable throttle response = which I thought was good with the old jets.
So everyone be warned: if you write-in about "throttle/idle" issues and you make no comment regarding "jets" ...............The first thing I'm going to INSIST on is that you replace the idle jets. THEY CAN MAKE THAT MUCH DIFFERENCE !
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
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Last edit: by scotch.

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 6 years 2 months ago #21193

  • StanG
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Scotch, Kawboy, or anyone else, could you post a couple pics of your plugs (the bike's that is, NOT your ear plugs!!!)

Actually, the bike does seem like hesitating sometimes when I open the throttle faster than the usual smooth, or for better word feels like a little lag. But maybe I am just used to the Vmax response? It might be also to do with braking in, and the clutch (which works well otherwise), and I am not really operating the bike as I would if I wasn't checking on the recommended 4000 rpm not more.

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