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Great job cleaning the carb linkages, springs and other carb parts. I'm curious as to what you plan on protecting those exterior carb parts with now that the rust has been removed.
I see a familiar jar of aluminum polish from the CTC store. You should buy yourself a tube of Autosol and give it a whirl (black and gold toothpaste style tube also from CTC) You'll junk that jar of aluminum polish (metal polish). The Autosol is hands down superior. Just thought I'd throw that out there to our newest polisher on the forum.

The piece you muffed up is called a float needle seat. The only part of that piece that really counts is the seat in the bottom of the needle seat where the needle seats and shut off the fuel. I'm sure you can clean up any light damage. Kawasaki calls this item a float valve assembly part # 16030-1005 www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...-a3/carburetor-parts . Although Partzilla says the part is "no longer available" I would go to Kawasaki dealership and ask them to check including checking in the warehouse in Japan. They can do that. I managed to get camshaft tensioner nylon gears from the Japan warehouse. Took 3 weeks for the parts to show up, but I got them.
I abuse the privilege of a sign up membership to ww.partzilla.com and use this site for researching parts drawings and parts numbers. It's a great tool. All they require is your email and you need to assign a password for the privilege of searching for parts and I'll also note that you can use this site for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha motorcycles ATV's and watercraft. Priceless !! Best part is They NEVER flog you with emails.

Each day when I switch on the computer, my first thoughts are now always to wonder what Stan has been doing since last time I looked. His very frequent updates help to make this a compelling account of a very interesting restoration, performed under difficult conditions. Stan’s enthusiasm, determination, and humour is truly inspiring. I’m sure that the diary of this project will add much to the knowledge base of this forum. And through each stage, those stalwarts Kawboy and Scotch – and others – are here to impart their invaluable wisdom and encouragement. We will all celebrate with you Stan, I feel sure, on the day that the mighty six lives and breathes again!

Stan, regarding the carb screws, springs, brackets etc., have you considered yellow passivating them, as shown in these links?

www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/carburato...ebuild-pt-1?start=24

www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/daily-cha...-do-it?start=6#11027

At my place of work, we recently completed the restoration of an old Porsche 911, and all the bolts, small springs and brackets were passivated. They looked great, and I don’t think it was very costly either.

Were now on the same page regarding the PLUGS. I'd recommend removing them. You will most likely find an adjustment is required on the idle mixing screws when it's time to start/run/adjust and sync. Meticulous work and it Will pay off ! I would keep working (gently) that stubborn idle-jet. The slightest burr will prevent it from coming out so some penetrating oil and threading it in and out will wear those down. I've had a few stubborn ones myself and it's nothing more then patience. When you're about to start hitting with a hammer - Apply some heat evenly to the tower and blow it out with Air applied to a connecting port. Just make sure it's facing down and there's a big fluffy towel to catch the little meteorite when it's discharged ! If you've 'worked" the small jet enough, the heat to the tower seems to expand the tower just that smallest amount to let the jet pass the internal threads.
cheers

Thank you Kawboy, Biltonjim and Scotch for the tips! (in the posts reading order so I am not accused of favoritism, haha)
A separate thank you to Biltonjim for your very kind words, which added even more octane to my motivation I'm glad I can contribute to the knowledge pull and also provide some entertainment.

In this post I will just show what I am using for cleaning and securing.
I will start with 'my precious' - two pairs of reading glasses so I can come closer to all the details which need to be inspected and polished.



I use a combination of brushes, sand paper, picks and such, depending on the part and type of cleaning. The sand paper sometimes rough as 100 even, or 150. I find myself using 275 very often. Next step 600 and for things really fine, 1500 up to 2000. For aluminum I usually use brass fine brushes. For rough larger passages, like those coming through cylinder head cover with all the carbon inside, I used a piece of plastic tubing for electrical wires harnessing. I use Mother's aluminum polish, and Autosol general metal polish. My impression was that Mother's is more like a smooth paste and Autosol somewhat minimally abrasive, so I use Mother's for fine internal cleaning.



For a lot of parts I use an ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green's Pro HD formula and distilled water in ratio roughly 1:5 or less. It cleans and removes grease very well. The 'green' formula of Simple Green is not advisable. The 'purple' formula is non aggressive towards aluminum and brass. I usually set the temperatures to about 55 degrees Celsius and time 15 minutes. Then I check the items and repeat. Usually 1 hour combined is enough. After cleaning I rinse everything in tap water, very through fully, and dry either with a hair dryer or place them on top of my apartment heater.



For general cleaning and penetrating I use WD40. But for very deep penetration of rusty stuck parts I use Kroil. I found it to be the best! WD40 had very little effect on the stuck pistons. I am sure that I accomplished having the cylinder block slide upwards (see my old post) thanks to Kroil. Acetone and Xylen - like paint thinner, I will soak parts in it as well, or use them for cleaning surfaces before painting.

For protection from rust after polishing things I use this aircraft anti-rust formula called ACF-50. I had to order it from Ontario. It's quite expensive, but a gallon will last for a very long time. It can be sprayed on electrical connections and metal. I read that it actually brings any traces of water or humidity to the surface instead of trapping it, and keeps parts form oxidizing for more than a year.



Last photo includes Seafoam - I use it as additive to fuel once in a while and it literally made the bike run smooth like new after being rough. This one is in spray, which I would spray for direct carburetor cleaning, but as additive to fuel they sell it in cans. I swear by it to work. In the past, I treated my Vmax like this: I disconnected the fuel pump and attached a small funnel to the fuel line. Then poured Seafoam until the engine died. Left it overnight, drained the carbs from Seafoam, repeated the funnel trick but this time with fuel to have it running followed again with Seafoam until the engine died. Left it overnight again. Drained the carbs, attached the fuel pump and let the engine run. Somoooth!!!! It felt like if the carburetor was rebuilt.



The other two in the photo are Aircraft paint stripper - I couldn't live without it for anything painted, and Metal Rescue. Metal Rescue is a bit expensive, about 35 dollars a gallon, but it lasts for a long time. It works until looses it's properties, so it can be reused several times. It's non-toxic, no acids, no alcalis, and environmentally safe. Looks like water, but it just makes rust to disappear like magic. First, before soaking, I always remove as much rust as I can mechanically with brushes and such first. Then soak the item usually overnight. Stubborn pieces I soak for two or three days. Then rinse with water and dry.

No Smoking signs up all over the apartment I'll persume. Ha!
Molly Maid couldn't hold a candle to you. You ALMOST have as many products as I do but I keep mine in a flammable storage cabinet.

You ALMOST have as many products as I do but I keep mine in a flammable storage cabinet.

You haven't seen anything yet Kawboy! haha I also have olive oil and canola. I rather avoid keeping them in a flammable storage, but the safest place in a house since people started living in houses - under the bathroom sink!
Nope, no signs here. I have no visitors, and despite the fact that I live on the East Coast, I don't even smoke weed!
And my place is covered in these. It's the safest place you could find! haha



Now back to using those dangerous goods until they are all gone! Hmmmm.... what am I going to polish tonight?.......