TOPIC:

Unrelated question - do you guys also get the 'Service Unavailable The server is temporarily unable to service your request due to maintenance downtime or capacity problems. Please try again later.' message as often as I do? It happens to me all the time.

Scotch, thank you, I will read your thread and hit you with any carb questions. You can't blame me now for bugging you! haha
I'm going to check my original floats after educating myself how it's done and use them for now if they are fine. All the removable parts will come out from the carbs. No question about it. Some might even get polished! LOL Quick ultrasonic cleaning will happen again, but of course I will be cleaning everything by hand mechanically.

Regarding the floats. When I removed the covers and placed the whole assembly upside down, two of the floats were positioned further from the body and one was just sitting much lower. When moved up and dropped those two would bounce like on a spring, but that one just dropped. I didn't inspect anything at the moment, so I don't exactly know what was happening there.

I have the main bowl gaskets but nothing else. There are some rebuilt kits on eBay and other KZ parts websites. The prices are all over the map, but of course the most important is the quality, especially regarding the o-rings. My needles look great, I am pretty sure all the brass parts should be reusable after cleaning. But all the rubbers need to be replaced. No questions about it. Which kit would you recommend to buy?

Now a teaser, just for some fun. It's KZ related by the 'polishing' factor, hahaha Last year I went through the extra parts for a Goldwing and some of them are in their full glory
One day I am going to put together a naked GL1100.

Stan - I got a brief "Service Unavailable” yesterday - it happens, but rarely. Bill will usually indicate to us if he's doing maintenance on the site and if it's going to be down for any time. I have had something unusual happen and I can't explain it. This is the second time I've responded and I get the message that the response has been acknowledged and accepted but when I check back, my last comment no longer exists. (?)
Next - Note to self: READ everything first and do not get distracted by shiny objects! I must have rotated your last photo a dozen times with multiple WTF's until I read the last line about the parts being from a Goldwing! Thank God. I do not want to have to polish my diff.-housing. Good one dude!
Re the floats: Thanks for the qualification. Sounds like that one needle-valve spring (internal to the needle and unserviceable) is "Baffed". You'll probably replace the three needle/valve assemblies with new ones so no concern other then to suggest you hold onto the three original needle retainer springs. It's been noted here several times that certain aftermarket needle-valve assemblies have retaining springs that are not made to OEM specs and they can cause the needle to hang-up, causing issues.
Stan - You made reference to needing to replace the Rubbers. This infers that your Main and Enrichment diaphragms are cracked/perforated/flaking or stiff ? What are your concerns?

This is where I am right now:





I am not going to disassemble the center assembly linkage. The cover is clean and I will polish it a bit just to tease Kawboy, haha I know I can't remove the tiny discolorations, but you can't even see it on the bike. Looks kind of cool like made from marble. The metal ball joints at the ends of the throttle shaft are rusty, but some brushing and metal polish will take care if of it. I might spray at it some zinc rich coating, which will make them rust resistant and look silver at the same time. The springs and everything else look clean and shiny. All is tight and moves freely.



The needles (I will post photos later) look new with a naked eye. I am thinking about reusing them.
The rubbers - I meant o-rings. The diaphragms look solid. I will leave them on. The springs look good, I will keep them.

I still have to get to removing the brass jets... I think I will need to do the heating trick. In my case, I will put them on my trusty electric heater cover for 15 minutes.
I can't move them at all right now. And those brass plungers - do you also remove them? I saw yours have those collars which you secured. Mine are just straight pipe.
How do you remove that top grass piece which sits underneath the float?



As the the rest, you gave me a good laugh Scotch! hahaha I imagined myself in the same situation, and while I consider myself smart in general, sometimes I catch myself doing the most ridiculous stupid things telling myself what the hell were you thinking!

I had my posts disappear before. Now I am in a habit to select all then copy, just in case. Sometimes I will write the post, or email, in notepad and then copy and paste. It saved me many times.
That unavailable service - I think it's Kunena forum server not responding problem.Could be maintenance, or it's just to weak. The good thing is it goes back to working. I am going to save the posts, including my thread, which interest me. I would definitely hate to loose all my posts and on this thread! I am going to make a book and sell it for a lot of money for which I will buy another KZ. LOL

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this but just in case - those emulsion tubes seen in your pictures (with the keyway over the brass pin) - extract through the bore side of the of the carb - not through the bowl side (pictured).

Ah, Goooood Morrrrrrning Vietnaaaam ! ( Thank you Robin Williams)
Not too much Bling to blind me this morning ! But we can fix that!
Stan. I'm looking at the pic of you linkages and am again compelled (lots of compelling this past week) to suggest you revisit your thoughts about leaving the main linkage shaft. Yes, the "Stacked" end must come apart but the '79 rebuild covers this Chinese-Puzzle . That heavy rust on the "ball-arm end" will wire-wheel off and with some of your profound elbow-grease, will polish (brighten-up) as will the other parts on the shaft. I know you'll polish the 3 link-rods!!!! For what it's worth I polish the internal parts too. I prefer to do everything I can to keep linkage drag to a minimum. The choke plungers should be polished lightly. No need to go crazy on these but a shiny stem and seal-end will allow the plungers to move freely with no drag, and this is important because the only thing keeping the choke-plunger seal against the seat is that one little spring (per choke). Wisely you've left the dust-cap on the plunger retaining nut !!!! Reading a bit further, you answered my Q about the diaphragms. Good to hear (by omission) that you're leaving the throttle-shaft seals, alone. The 2 steel throttle- shaft caps will polish.! A touch of wax now, and periodic cleaning will help keep the rust from returning on the steel pieces. The needle-valve bodies are giving your trouble? If after some soaking in a penetrating oil and some heat, they still won't budge - blow/wash out the P.-oil and soak that end of the carb-body (ONLY) in some lacquer-thinner. (Kawboy's laughing now - private joke!)
I've been doing the same thing: Write something in WORD and copy and paste it to the thread.
I'll be bac !

Indeed! I love the smell of KZ in the morning, LOL
Ask and shall receive!



Regarding the 'stack' of springs, I will give it a second thought. But it is truly smooth and clean. There is no slightest indication of movement obstruction. Those rusted parts are already taken care of, except for finishing all up therefore not posting a photo yet. I used a small wire brush and left overnight in miraculous Metal Rescue. I can't see any rust left! Of course, a photo will follow later on.

Scotch, I admit the photo with the pliers confused me. I tried to pull those tubes out the wrong way! They felt solid so I left them to do more reading. Now I understand what you meant by not using the pliers! And thank you for the reminder zed_thirteen! I will give them a chance today in the right direction.

I totally agree about polishing inside out precision parts, like these. A fix to failing mechanisms sometimes is simply to take them apart, clean, put back together and voila - it works! I wouldn't leave the carburetors less than perfect within what they are. I am going to mist spray the aircraft anti-rust, which also lubricates this kind of small linkages. With periodic cleaning all will be fine.