TOPIC:

I took the fuel cut off solenoid valve out of the plastic bag. No surprise there - all plugged with dry brown sludge. Next - an hour of carefully scraping the stuff off. With my double reading glasses and fine picks, I felt like an archaeologist trying to bring to light a trilobite from a piece of a rock. The only specimen known in existence that is, not just any one!

Two hour later, some polish, soaking, and all started making sense. To my relief, I started noticing smoothness in the specimen instead of tooth marks.





The pile of 'sand' was triple this amount at the end.

The rubbers will need to be replaced. They seem kind of hard. That little rubber piston has a little circle looking like a crater at the mating surface where it seals the fuel flow, and a bit brittle.

I set up this little piece for precise trimming, leveling it and making sure its smooth. I hurried through it a bit though, without experimentation, but all went relatively well. I cut through it with a new blade like cutting a piece of fish for sashimi. For best results I'd suggest just pushing the edge straight instead of angled. Another thing, I'd stabilize the rubber more for less play and a finer thinner slice. Even using thick starch and letting it dry would prevent the rubber from subtle movement. I would cool it down in a fridge as well. Not perfect, but very close. I am sure there will be no problem sealing when the valve is activated and touches the rim.



All laid out:



So, now the solenoid is almost done. Just need the new seals, which I will have to match (two round ones and one rectangular in shape, so it seems), and testing the valve to assure it moves. I am posting a photo of the electrical connector - does anyone know what voltage and which wires to jump to activate it? I couldn't find anything about it in the service manual about it, or the forum.

I will be installing a second simple shut off manual valve, and a fuel filter as well. I just want this one to work properly and be in place.

Just a quick follow up on my carbs work. Soaked these in Xylene for two days and now cleaning all the little holes manually. I want to reinforce Scotch's note about doing it. Some are plugged even after ultrasonic cleaning, or at least not as free as they should be. These precise carb cleaning picks are superb for the job. One by one and patience.



After cleaning every hole, I suggest to hold it up to light and turn. It's easy to see all the passages clean or not.

It's been said befroe Stan, but that is some truly thorough and precise work you're doing there mate ! Credit to you
Sure she'll be epic when finished

Cheers Tim

Stan, I wonder which manual you are working from/ In mine, which includes models KZ1300 A1 to A5, page 166 has a good description of the fuel solenoid test procedure. It is tested in three modes, and there is a caution not to leave the power connected too long, so as not to burn out the solenoid.

Good work with making that washer for the solenoid. In England, there is a company www.worldofwashers.com/home and they can make virtually anything like that. They made me some obsolete leather seals for an old British foot pump I was restoring, and they were perfect.

Those carb cleaning picks look useful. Similar to oxy/acetylene welding nozzle cleaners, but finer. They need careful use, of course, as you don't want to damage the holes.

Still can't get over how good that re-chromed alternator cover looks. It gives me hope for mine, which, if I ever get started on my restoration, will need similar treatment. Also the clutch housing.