TOPIC:

I downloaded the 1979 - 1983 service manual, with appendixes for extra info about specific changes to certain years. My model is '82 A4. It is weird but I read about things there but later can't find them! Now I found the solenoid testing part on page 166. But I don't see anything about servicing it mechanically. I think I read somewhere that it just has to be replaced when failure occurs. The main body is sealed, but this part with seals is definitely easy to check and service with new o-rings. I just want to see it work to be sure it's not stuck. I don't want to pull the piston using force, because I am not sure if that would be recommended and safe.

For direct cleaning or pulling through pieces of fabric for cleaning passages, I also use a piece of mig welding wire.

I am chrome plating everything that was originally plated but deteriorated, plus a couple of extra things for looks and because I got a really good price or had them done gratis.

Here is the clutch cover already after lots of time I spent on removing the damaged chrome and pitted oxidized aluminum. Almost an impossible task especially in all those tight curvy places. Plus, even if you could polish the aluminum, there would be a sharp edge of still attached chrome prone to peeling and letting moisture in and the deterioration would continue.
One option is to have a shop chemically remove the chrome, nickel and copper, and polish it. Then you could paint it or go at it trying to polish it. Some areas show such discoloration though, that I think chrome plating is the best option. And these covers were originally chrome plated on this bike anyway.



Here the same clutch cover after being plated.

All I can say is WOW !! You've demonstated over and over again, nothing is impossible. Most people would have tossed that cover and looked for a newer one in better shape. That cover of yours is "better than new" Lots of people would be envious. That's restoration taken to the limit. Nicely done. I bow to you.

Thank you Kawboy! Bit by bit. I'd lie if I said I don't feel overwhelmed sometimes thinking of the thousand tasks I will have to accomplish in my primitive settings and running around, but keeping the big picture in mind I can see the puzzle slowly getting together and I keep going. Imagining the satisfaction and fun when putting everything together puts a smile on my face, and I already have a feeling of accomplishment. It also became easier once I developed a very selective long term memory loss in regards to the price tags and ignore the future rude awakening, hahaha

I went to see the bike yesterday with intention to remove the swing arm. Nope. The inside placed clip to disconnect the shaft is sitting a bit too deep to remove it with what tools I brought. Next I removed the engine to frame brackets and the swing arm brackets.



The swing arm shafts are exposed but stuck. Nothing new from what I read, and the manual is just ridiculous about removing them. 'Insert a 5 mm bolt and pull them out.' Yeah, right.. I am going to go back and spray some penetrating oil on them and wait. Perhaps put some tension on them. I am also going to remove the 4 bolts where the engine is attached to the drive shaft and start working on removing the engine while the swing arm shafts are hopefully getting loose. I am not yet ready for drilling and threading those 5 mm holes for larger size bolts. I will leave it as a last resort. It would be easier to apply tension on those shafts with the engine out putting the frame on it's side and hanging it by those 5 mm bolts.

Hi Stan. Regarding those swing-arm pins: I had to remove mine in '83 for plating and paint, so arguably they were "new" but an absolute "bitch" to get out. Even with pre-soaking and heat - it was a struggle. I'm interested in seeing what method you use. A slide-hammer technique (slack-chain) was what I ended up using and was fortunate enough to be able to use the 5mm hole but I expect I was close to pulling the threads.

Yes, the first obvious thing that came to me was to use a slide-hammer, but I don't have it. I have to soak them first anyway. I'd be careful with it if using because the 5 mm doesn't exactly sounds more like a weak link than anything else in this set up. Will see... The swing arm feels solid. Anything inside, the gears, all underneath the boot, are shiny and clean. I'd imagine these tight swing arm shafts sealed everything good as well. Everything I pulled has lots of clean grease. Time will tell, but I am also exercising the option of just leaving it as is.

My favorite creation for issues like this is a large socket that will fit over the pin boss in the frame and allow the pin to be drawn out and into the socket. Marry that up with 10.5 grade allen head cap screw (5mm) with a nut and 3 or 4 fender washers. Assemble the allen head cap screw with the nut, then under the nut will be the fender washers which will sit on the back side of the socket. Place the open end of the socket over the swing arm pin and screw the allen head screw into the threads in the pin to be removed. Use the nut to draw or put tension on the cap screw which is threaded into the pin and use an allen wrench on the end of the cap screw to hold the screw from bottoming out in the pin. You can tighten the nut up to where you think the screw threads are almost yielding and if the pin doesn't break free, grab a propane torch and warm things up a bit. Usually when a pin is frozen like these and there's tension on the allen screw and heat is applied, there's the infamous "crack" sound when it breaks free. This is an old trick we used to use pulling kingpins in the old Volkswagen Bugs. And they were a bitch.