1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild

Do you have any particular brand that you prefer Kawboy?
I found 3 oz. Tube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon PTFE at Home Depot. It's rated up to 450 F.
There is also 88 mL Tube Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon (PTFE)

StanG wrote: Do you have any particular brand that you prefer Kawboy?
I found 3 oz. Tube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon PTFE at Home Depot. It's rated up to 450 F.
There is also 88 mL Tube Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon (PTFE)

I'm a little concerned about the PTFE . I'd stay away from these 2.

Here's one from Home depot www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1000735861.ht...NEAYYASABEgIFnPD_BwE

If I were you , I'd go get this one (above) from Home Depot

I have a tube kicking around from my Ontario Hydro days and it's made by Dow Corning similar to this www.coleparmer.ca/i/fomblin-dc976vf-vacu...NEAYYAiABEgLQyvD_BwE
This one is not cheap but it was free for me.

Any silicone grease will be fine.

They sell tubes at Canadian Tire for cheap. I can't find it online right now but pretty sure they have it.

Great! I am going to mount them to free some more shelf space. They don't need to get off again anyway.
Oh, wait! Why the heck I didn't throw it in the mix. Totally forgot... I've been using Permatex dielectric grease for spark plug boots, batteries and electrical connections. It doesn't mention vacuum though as the one you suggest.
Exactly this: Permatex Dielectric Grease

Are you familiar with this one? Would this one be fine? I am just wondering about the vacuum aspect, if the one you mentioned has some additional properties pertaining to vacuum.

This also reminded me of another thing which I was researching and would like to hear an opinion. Softening old rubbers. I've seen wintergreen oil mentioned as additive to water for softening old rubber. Of course it's not possible to make it knew, but does it really improve it? Is it worth a shot?

Looks fine to me Stan. Not so sure about the wintergreen oil. I know rubber material will harden with age and exposure to ultraviolet light. Not sure just how wintergreen alters to chemistry of the rubber and if it does soften it up how do you stop the reaction before the part is unservicable?

Fantastic Kawboy! They will go with stainless Allen bolts, not those awkward Phillips screws, unless not recommended. I know it's recommended to tighten stainless bolts with less torque, but I have seen them used with these intake boots.
I apply copper based Bel-Ray anti-seize 2000 compound and all stainless threads, and other high temperature exposed nuts etc., like the cylinder head nuts. Exhaust of course as well. The one I have has a long history actually, and was used by my father, a naval engineer, professionally on ships and otherwise. Kind of cool to have this old timer compound helping out this classic bike! It states effectiveness up to 2000°F and loads up to 200,000 lbs.

Some more progress today:





This is the original starter which was completely stuck solid and rusted and I rebuilt it. Tested - works like new!
But I'd like to point out a very important information for anyone rebuilding these. Align the marks on it precisely and correct! In my ignorance I had those lines off by about 5 mm, and when tested - it didn't move! Just a spark and looked like a short. Thinking maybe internally things are broken because of all the previous rust, I went on eBay and purchased another one. The seller even posted a video especially for me to show it works. A very nice seller. So I got my new starter and looked at it closely. Then went back to the service manual and confirmed the alignment of my original one was not right. I corrected it right away, and boom! It's alive!! So, this is the one installed now. In the meantime, I opened up the new arrival and cleaned it up internally, put some new grease, removed carbon etc. . So now I have a spare good starter motor. I think I will paint it later.