1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild

StanG wrote: QUESTION:

From experience, how much play when pressing on the cam chain is 'healthy' by feeling? Right now about 1 mm. I can't find that suggested point where you turn the manual tensioner back 1/4 of a turn for that 'sweet' point. Just need a safe spot before starting in the future the bike for the first time. Then all the fiddling can begin.
So, what is the safe starting point?

1mm seems a bit tight to me. I would be shooting for 2-3mm's and then roll the engine through by hand and check the tension in several different spots. And recheck your timing marks !!!

A short story well worth mentioning - The young kid I bought my KZ1300 from had bought the bike from his Father. The kid decided to do a rings and valve job on the bike, so he stripped it down did the work completeing all of the work and then turned on the ignition key and hit the starter button. His big mistake was he got the intake and exhaust cams in the wrong places and when he hit the starter, bent a valve. And that's why I got a KZ1300 for $500 .

Stan, if you are intent on using the manual tensioner, before fitting that, why not fit the original tensioner, release the locking bolt on the side, rotate the engine a couple of times, then have a feel of the chain to determine how tense it is. At least you could then judge how much tension the original tensioner applies. Then you could fit the manual tensioner, and try to achieve the same tension.

Quite a lot of members seem to choose the ZX11 automatic tensioner, with the spring shortened. As for me, I intend modifying the original tensioner, in one of the ways Lari or Scotch has suggested in previous posts, as I would be more confident that the correct designed tension was being applied. The subject has been covered many times.

By coincidence I did this mod. yesterday. Neither a suggestion or recommendation. Just something I did. I agree with the previous adjustment suggestions. The only comment I can make regarding the OEM CCT, the aftermarket CCT's or the ZX11 tensioner is this: (And this is intended for the completely uninitiated) - NEVER tighten the CCT with a wrench on the Bolt-Head !!!! My personal experience has always been to turn the BOLT in by hand !! Using a wrench on this bolt will most likely over-tighten the adjustment !

Thank you!

Just a quick response to explain where my asking this question came from: mine is a simple aftermarket tensioner (PSR Manual Cam Chain Tensioner) and I am having a REAL hard time to feel when it meets the resistance. It's quite tight despite pulling the o-ring back and I can feel resistance from start. I can only see when the chain moves just a bit and wondering if that would be 'the point' to keep for further experimenting.
I will practice more with closed eyes and meditation, maybe I will get it by feeling it! lol

I don't remember if this is the exact the same one, but looks like this PSR tensioner

And the end is tapered - not sure if this is a good thing? The oem is flat. Maybe this makes it more difficult to feel by hand. Maybe not good for wear as well. Considering to grind it flat. Any thoughts?

If it were me, I'd pull that tensioner off and work the threads between the tensioner body and the screw to loosen the thread up so that you can nicely turn the screw in the tensioner with little to no resistance. Lapping compound or never sieze, just loosen it up. Reinstall and tighten the tensioner by "feel". The old 1965 Honda 150 (C95) I had, used a similar tensioner and it was loosey goosey. Really nice to be able to feel the tensioner as you set the chain tension..