1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild

In the process, I was turning the crank over a few times, and also rinsed the oil drain passages by squirting first WD40 in them, and clean oil.



The crank case is clean and shiny on the inside. Everything moves very smooth. Now a bit more care on the outside and painting.

Big step my friends! The underbelly is painted!
I will keep the oil pan masking for the next day until it cures (dry after 2 hours). Then do some belly pan mock up parts assembly to have everything ready for later and tip the case upright in a couple days to finish the painting job of the top. That will be it! The engine should go back in the frame by next weekend.

I need help with sorting out these turn signals. The top one is front, the bottom rear.
The rear came all sprayed with silver paint and I managed to wipe it off. The metal collar was bend but I took it off and put it back into the correct shape.

Now, getting to the point. The now in place on the rear light assembly two rubber dumpers and the chrome collar were missing, but purchased them all from Kawasaki. The rear is complete. Now the front - what you see is how they came. Looking at parts diagram, that dumper is not the correct one, and also the plastic shaped piece which keeps the light in position is missing.

Could someone confirm that the front dumpers should be identical to rear? Looking at parts diagram that's what I see. I'm just a bit confused and need confirmation. I still don't have the fork ears so I don't have a reference, but from what I see is a missing metal collar, the inner plastic piece, and the correct identical to rear rubber dumper.

Hi Stan, all signals should be like the bottom or rear one. The shaft should have the steel collar, then the diamond shaped plastic part. The diamond shaped rubber fits the opening in the frame. The metal collar with the rubber damper insert is "inside", everything is fixed with the collar nut. The grounding cable goes underneath the nut.
Website www.partzilla.com has great part drawings, they also carry lots of OEM parts.

Thank you Laurie. That cleared things up!

The last part left to paint of the main engine body is the cylinder head. I am masking it right now.

The rest - three to four coats, 10 - 15 minutes between. The preparation included degreasing, POR15 metal prep solution for priming (on bare metal surfaces), rinsing with water, drying with a hair dryer, painting. Then applying heat from a hair dryer after all done at high heat and from about 1 inch distance. Prior to going full swing I tested an area on the cylinder block. Just after 24 hours, the surface was durable and resistant to wiping it even with a paint thinner. That says - 'tough'!
The PJ1 satin black is my choice for painting.

I placed the parts in sunshine next to a set to the max electric heater for an hour. Now, after the sun is down, I am going to leave everything alone for a couple days. I will do the heating and cooling treatment again tomorrow when the temperatures here go up, and put all on the shelf until it goes back on the bike