THE MOMENT OF TRUE.

Kawboy wrote:

The pick-up coil inspection / test is explained on page 242 of the Service Manual. It is a simple resistance test with a multimeter.


 

The service manual refers to "Kawasaki hand tester". Can a current digital tester be used?




Knowing what you paid for this bike, I feel like you really got taken to the cleaners. Sorry this happened to you and I give you a pat on the back for sticking it out. 

Only my pride and desire for the bike to work motivate me.
In my life I have suffered setbacks and discouragements but no one has left my butt as sore as the guy who sold me this motorcycle

biltonjim wrote:

The Carmichael improved igniter is worth considering. It lists numerous advantages over the original.

www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=product...f19fko6n26l2a4mujne1

I have discovered a dealer of Carmo products in the city of Barcelona.

They offer a service to check and repair the damaged unit.

Tomorrow I will call and ask for information.

Your multimeter has a resistance scale in Ohms with the symbol  Ω  Set it to the right scale as per the test on page 242 and do your test.

Carmo should be able to test your igniter. You need to tell them that the problem happens after warm up.

"Only my pride and desire for the bike to work motivate me.
In my life I have suffered setbacks and discouragements but no one has left my butt as sore as the guy who sold me this motorcycle"

No truer words have ever been spoken. I've spent more money on my A1 than what is worth. And it still is on the lift.

 

I have contacted Carmo's dealer in Barcelona by telephone.

After explaining my case to him, he gave me two solutions.Send the damaged CDI to England to be checked, the cost of the review is 75 euros and repair it if possible, adding a cost of 280 euros.Buy a new improved CDI at a cost of 430 euros.

www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=index&c...830_2169&language=en


The white cables with a black stripe and yellow cables with a red stripe have been spliced ​​because they have been damaged.


The green output wire still has traces of burnt plastic attached to it.


I'm not going to send the CDI to England to be repaired.
I'm going to disassemble it and depending on how destroyed its interior is, I'll take it to a specialized workshop in my area to be repaired.




Can someone tell me the procedure to open the CDI?


It is sealed with rubber.
  If I don't find a repair solution I will have no choice but to spend 430 euros.

KawaBCN wrote "Can someone tell me the procedure to open the CDI?"

It can be done with an X-Acto knife ( a sharp razor blade knife) It's time consuming. Probably take about 2-3 hours. Just start cutting away little pieces of the rubber resin being careful not to cut into the components or cut the printed circuit board. USAKZ1300 did a repair a while back but didn't create a topic on the repair. 
Judging from your pictures, you might get lucky and only have to replace the lead wires to the igniter. It's hard to understand what caused the burning of the wires as they exited the igniter box, unless they shorted to the box itself.
The Carmo igniter option is a good one.
The GM HEI triple igniter is also a good work around. (which I mentioned in a previous post and could be done for less than $100 depending upon which igniters you purchase)

Then there is the Microsquirt option, Although cost wise its about the same as the Carmo option but more involved I wouldn't recommend the Microsquirt option for the average guy. It's a standalone engine management system that is fully programmable with a windows based computer. It will handle up to  4 channels for  ignition system with a 2 channels for fuel injection system. Easily handles the needs of a fuel injected V8 engine if you want.