Thank you Kawboy.
The photos were taken almost 3 months ago.. I have some updates.
I did exactly what you suggest. It was way worse than that though... All was like welded. Absolutely no play after soaking in different kinds of penetrants.
I researched the subject and came to conclusion that there are two items I felt I could use safely: Kroil and Metal Rescue.
I was really afraid something will bend or break if I try to turn the shaft. I gave up on it despite cleaning up the visible areas.I thought it might not be safe to try to push the pistons up against possible rust build up. I opened the oil pan and saw no coolant in it. Looking down the engine, there was no rust. With hope no coolant went pass the rings, I figure out that perhaps the safest possible success would be just to keep the pistons not moved where the are, and try to slide off the cylinder block upwards.
I disconnected all the bolts and anything holding the cylinder block down. I used pullies to apply upward pressure on the block. Quite a bit of force. Nothing moved of course. Then I filled the cylinders with Metal Rescue. Once it evaporated, I cleaned the cylinders up and refilled with Metal Rescue. I applied Kroil iat first, but later got rid of it as much as possible thinking anything oily would not let the Metal Rescue penetrate. After almost two months and three changes of the Metal Rescue, I came to check on the bike. Wow!!! The cylinder block was quarter of an inch off the engine block on one side! I cleaned any Metal Rescue residue and applied Kroil. Planned to keep it till next day but after applying just a bit of more pressure on the pullies, it lifted right off with no efford, on both sides! Then working it evenly, it slid right off the pistons. I couldn't believe to see the pistons and having the block on the ground!!!
There seems to be a bit of very superficial rust on the surface of the connecting rods, but it came off with a simple wipe. No play detectable and I think all is good.
In the meantime, I purchased an old cylinder block with pistons on eBay. Not surprisingly, all but one sleeve in the original block that came off my bike were completely shot. Only one was OK, and in the purchased block one was bad. I put the block in the oven and then tapped the good sleeve out.
Purchased two bottom o-rings from Kawasaki (oem), and one (top) from alternative shop (not oem).
Right now the cylinder block with pistons and that spare salvaged from the original block are at the machine shop. The one sleeve will get replaced, all will be deglazed, and I hope that's it.
Ordered oem water pump oil seal from Kawasaki, and cleaned the mechanical seal assembly. I think it will hold up.
Next is the cylinder head. Already cleaned it superficially. It will most likely a slight resurfacing as there are bits missing here and there.
Did crude valve seal tests - sprayed Kroil, which is really super penetrating, on the valves (spring are there so all are closed). One exhaust and one intake let Kroil go through. I will know what's happening once the valves are out. Valve stem seals are arriving.
By the way...
Rings on the pistons, which came with the alternative block look great. I know, best is to get new sets. I am not cheap and want to get it done properly to my best current finacial ability, but in the back of my head is keeping the rings.
What do you think?
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts