TOPIC:

( ZesThirteen wrote) The rims will accept tubeless tires.
 my apologies to ZedThirteen for deleting his post. I'm working from my phone for a couple of days waiting for a new computer. When on my phone the delete button and the reply button are almost on top of each other and my chubby finger hit the delete button by mistake. Sorry about that.

I agree with ZedThirteen. You can use tubeless tires. The rims are made for them.

 

I already have it repaired.
They have replaced the valve on the rim, a tubeless tire is fitted.
Thanks for the quick answers.

This afternoon I went out for a ride on the motorcycle.


I have ridden about 15 km. Everything seems correct except for a metallic rattle when accelerating hard, it is only perceived with the engine under load, increasing revs, when the speed stabilizes the fucking noise disappears, and when decelerating it doesn't either.

In the attached video you can hear it between seconds 30 and 50.




I'm going to remove the valve cover again.

I think there may be some timing desynchronization, with a little luck it may just be half a tooth of the chain behind or forward, if not that I'm completely lost.

Another issue to check is the oil leaks. It looks like a gay pride parade float every time it makes a stop.



 

That oil leak looks like its th e O-ring on that pipe shouldn't be hard to fix if you can get the elbow out without taking the exhaust off.

stocktoy wrote:

That oil leak looks like its th e O-ring on that pipe shouldn't be hard to fix if you can get the elbow out without taking the exhaust off.

I replaced the o-ring, and all the other gaskets, when I assembled the engine. 

I will check the tightening torque of the screws.

THERE IS SOMETHING THAT ESCAPES MY UNDERSTANDING.

I sacrificed my Sunday at the beach by staying in the garage with Christine, I removed the valve head cover.
 


I advanced the timing depth one tooth, focusing its reference points as much as possible. 



I also drained the oil pan to remove the alternator cover to see the crankshaft timing marks. 



I checked the valve clearance, everything was correct.

I reassembled everything again, I took the opportunity to change the tach seal, it is the same reference that the KZ1000 and the KZ650 have, I have some spare parts at home. 



I have gained some practice when removing the fuel tank, I don't pinch my fingers trying to remove the tap flange in such a small space.

 

I take out the flange of the gasoline pipe that feeds the filter, it is under the carburetors and I can fit both hands without a problem.

 

I disconnect the fuel gauge cables, the vacuum tube from the intake manifold and simply pull up the tank.

The bike starts on the first try with just a touch of the button, it sounds softer with the advance of the timing that I adjusted today but...

It keeps making a damn clack-clack-clack when accelerating sharply...

The next step is to look for the source of the fucking noise with a stethoscope.