TOPIC:

If you remove the clutch adjuster cover (three screws) there is an adjuster. With slack in the cable,  slacken the lock-nut and then turn the center rod with a screwdriver.  Turn it in (clockwise) until you feel resistance and then back it off 1/4 turn (I think it's quarter turn?), then lock it off again.

Anyway, if this center push rod is too tight the clutch can slip - probably more when it expands through heat.

zed_thirteen wrote:

If you remove the clutch adjuster cover (three screws) there is an adjuster. With slack in the cable,  slacken the lock-nut and then turn the center rod with a screwdriver.  Turn it in (clockwise) until you feel resistance and then back it off 1/4 turn (I think it's quarter turn?), then lock it off again.

Anyway, if this center push rod is too tight the clutch can slip - probably more when it expands through heat.

You beat me to it by 4 minutes. LOL !! Yes, my exact thoughts. The push rod is bottomed out.

Sounds pretty good in the 'First Test Ride' video!

zed_thirteen wrote:

If you remove the clutch adjuster cover (three screws) there is an adjuster. With slack in the cable,  slacken the lock-nut and then turn the center rod with a screwdriver.  Turn it in (clockwise) until you feel resistance and then back it off 1/4 turn (I think it's quarter turn?), then lock it off again.Anyway, if this center push rod is too tight the clutch can slip - probably more when it expands through heat.

As soon as I have a moment I'll check this tensioner part, although I didn't touch anything about how it was calibrated when I took the engine apart and took the tensioner cover off.

I will also bleed the brakes again to rule out a brake pump pressure problem.

Regarding the suspension to end the effect of riding a horse-drawn stagecoach from the Far West.What maximum air pressure should I inject into each fork leg for it to work and not break the seals?

I also intend to change the oil, how much does each fork arm have? 

 

Front Fork oil change is covered in the manual on page 226.  It calls for SAE 10W20 oil . 360cc oil per fork if your just changing the oil.  391 cc of oil if you disassemble the forks and rebuild.

As far as the clutch problem- I don't know how many times I've seen people with clutch problems because they didn't know about the pushrod adjustment. I've seen bike sold because of clutch /transmission problems and then found out it was just a pushrod adjustment issue.

The front fork air pressure is covered in the Operating Manual on page 81.
Air pressure should be between 50- 70 Kpa ( 7.1 - 10 psi.)