TOPIC:

I was very lucky with the battery bracket. I think it was the second one I have seen.
I got it very cheap from eBay along with other items, which I didn't need, but that's how it sometimes work when they offer a bundle for sale. I think I have extra couple battery trays this way, an inner fender, etc. But that's fine. Perhaps handy if fixing another one? haha There is no way I'd be again putting together another Z unless in a proper garage, and I have no funds for it anyway. But I know my fingers will stay itchy for years to come.

I think you are very lucky that your bike came with the tool tray! That battery bracket is not very complicated to fabricate, if you have basic tools and place to do it. That was my direction until I got lucky.

Scotch, I was just checking my purchase history. Those engine guards - I paid $20 for them, free shipping! It was a 'no-brainer'! I think the seller counted on high bids but somehow it went unnoticed and I got this great deal. The only additional cost will be chrome plating. I think they complement the bike and it will be a while until I will be pushing it this much in the corners. But sure they will protect the covers in case of slipping my foot on some leaf and tipping! Also, I know a guy who saved his foot when crashed thanks to engine guards. The good thing is - they can always come off.
(not the foot that is, but in a morbid way also so true)

To gain enough clearance between the new ballast resistors and the tank, I made two modifications. The first was to move the resistors slightly further forward than the originals so the front of the resistors slightly overhung the front of the bracket. I made a strap out of stainless steel that was less wide than the recess in the ballast resistors to enable this. The second modification was to the original bracket and its two "feet". The picture below shows the resistors mounted on the standard bracket - when I used my "plastigauge" approach to check clearance with the tank, it looked very tight, maybe only a few millimetres, so I modified the bracket to slope downwards from front to back. You will see in the second picture that I bent the front foot of the bracket to be close to vertical whilst flattening the rear foot to maintain the distance to the mounting holes. This gave me over 5mm of clearance to the tank which thought would be acceptable. Hope this is helpful!

Thank you. That's what I was thinking looking previously at your photos (bending the bracket). I am going to do the 'plastigauge' test as well. I remember a discussion about different shapes of fuel tanks, I think it's a good idea to see what exactly is going on with mine.
Didn't you think about covering those terminals with something, just in case? The tank sitting on rubber, I actually wonder if it's all on it's own or grounded somewhere to the frame.

The tank sitting on rubber, I actually wonder if it's all on it's own or grounded somewhere to the frame.

The tank may sit on "Rubbers" but it is grounded by the Fuel-Gauge ground-wire.

Yes, I did think about insulating the terminals but I could not think of a good way to do it. It would need to be very heat resistant as well as an insulator. I also needed to avoid anything too bulky as there is not much room particularly around the back end of the resistors. I was also aware that they are not insulated when used for their primary automotive application. The terminals are recessed into the ceramic block so unlikely to contact the tank or frame.