TOPIC:

A recap: front forks removal and installment.

This method is the least expensive and troublesome in my opinion. Plus saves space because you'd use the tools you probably already have, and the only extra left will be a small coupling.
The only needed extra expense, is a 15/16 inch (24 mm) plated rod coupling nut from a hardware store (Home Depot in my case, about $4.50 Canadian), 60 cc syringe (1.49), plus a piece of duct tape.
Tools: 10 mm Allen key socket and 24 mm socket.

I drained air, removed the top nuts (27 mm), drained the oil. Used impact gun to loosen the bottom bolts. The pistons started spinning, so I used 3 feet long 1/2 inch copper pipe at first to remove the first piston, because I was still learning and didn't have my 'specialty' set up. Tap the pipe into the piston, hold it with wise grips, undue the bottom bolt, pull the piston out.

There is no need for copper pipes if done using the coupling nut.

I guess pictures speak for themselves. This set up is solid and easy to use disassembling and assembling. The socket I used was 24 mm 1/2 drive, and for the bottom bolt 10 mm Allen key socket 3/8 drive with a 1/2 adapter because I used a 1/2 drive impact gun to undue it. It's not necessary, but easier. When assembling, it's easy to use it with a torque wrench. 391 cc of 15W oil and 9 psi air pressure afterwards is what I chose.

As you see, I used a three extensions and a duct tape to hold the coupling and the socket together. The tape actually plays double role: keeps the coupling and the socket tight together, and protects the inner walls of the fork from scratching. The rest is straight forward.

Spring service limit 580 mm (mine is 590), disassembled and completely dry fork oil volume 391 cc (360 cc if just oil change), 2 bottom bolts torque 27 ft.-lbs (apply non permanent liquid gasket to the gasket), 2 top bolts 16.5 ft.-lbs, air valve 104 inch-lbs.
The exact amount of oil measured with a 60 cc syringe purchased from a medical equipment suppler.

Hey Stan. I'm not sure how reliable the free length spring service measurement is. The springs on my CB900F (which incidental take the same replacement spring as a KZ1300 - which weighs more than 200 lbs more than a 900F . WTF??? ) were clearly 'sacked out' as the sag was brutal yet they measured within spec when removed from the forks. The Progressive brand springs that I replaced the originals with sure fixed the sag and made a huge improvement in handling.

Hmm... There is also the oil and air pressure in the picture. I read someone put 15W and 10 psi and his forks he said felt good, while having 10W they felt soft. Prior to KZ13 I was researching quite a bit about Vmax springs and oil - so many combinations and people end up with all sorts of set ups. One thing that was common people ran progressive springs without air, but playing with preload tension using a pcv pipe to have it 1-1.5 inches above the fork rim. A bit different setup again than KZ.
Many people had the same improvement as you said - better handling and much less nose dive.
I was planning on installing Ricor intiminators, and they don't need progressive springs, and go with a lighter oil (5 or 7, 7.5). I still have both on the shelf, but will do the swap this summer.
There are so many options... I will keep my stock forks - oh well, they are longer than service limit by service manual by 10 mm, and use that heavier 15W oil and maybe go for 10 psi, and see what happens. I think it will be experimentation, and see how I feel. I can always change to heavier oil, but some people didn't like 20W as too stiff. Then there is the riding style - I'll see what will fit mine. I think 15W and 9 psi would be a good starting point.

StanG wrote: ....I was planning on installing Ricor intiminators, ......

I'd be very interested in your experience with those once you have a few miles on them.

What else - nobody noticed that in the picture and I just trusted the guy because I gave the instructions and didn't check on it when picking up the wheels. Today I mounted the whole rear and noticed the rear tire was mounted backwards!!!! Now I have to go back to the place and have them correct this. Always trouble unless you do it yourself.

StanG wrote: ..... Always trouble unless you do it yourself.

While I agree 100% - the last time I changed a rear tire, I laid everything out and checked three times and I still manged to get the tire on backwards.

I haven't bothered to fix it yet (but I would have if someone else had done it )