TOPIC:

I had an air fill valve on the CBX on one fork with a tie in tube that balanced the air between both forks. I used to over fill the forks and then dribble out the exces air using the tire pressure gauge. Always hit my mark. (Just saying)

Thank you for the tips!

I am going to look for a bicycle pump like Bucko suggests, and set it with a gauge, like Kawboy said.

Biltonjim - They are going to be pressed on the wheels tomorrow. I will post pictures. Wheels are ready with new bearings and seals, and all painted and cleaned, including one part chromed.

With the unusual circumstances of my build, I need to make a plan. The bike can't fit in the elevator fully assembled. The plan is to fully assemble it at my place including wheels and everything., including battery so I can test the lights. The starter works, the solenoid works, so I am sure the engine will turn. I am not going this far here though, and I will not be putting oil nor coolant in the bike before taking it down.
The rough plan is to remove the front forks and the wheel, remove the rear shock, unscrew and align with the bike the handlebar, remove the seat, the tail light with the cowling and the fender, remove the turn signals. I will be mocking up the oil pan, but probably not attaching it permanently. It's easier to place the bike on a flat surface than with the oil pan in place.
I will build a custom dolly from 2x4 and 3/4 inch plywood with four caster wheels and pieces of wood screwed down to keep the bike in place. Tie down the bike to it with straps so it want move when pushing it by holding the frame. It will be about the same size as when I brought it here and will fit in the elevator this way. If I'd decide to bolt on the oil pan permanently, I'd just add more space between the bike and the dolly to keep the distance. I am just not too keen on having the gravity center too far from the ground. There is also the issue of the exhaust pipes - I'd rather not risk having them squashed so I'd prefer having them off for transport.
Once out of the hiding, I would bring the removed parts and having everything already prepared, putting them back on the bike would be an already rehearsed routine and should take no time. Wheels, lights, pipes, and the oil pan.
Next, pour the oil and coolant in and hit the start button, with a small detachable temporary fuel tank. If it fires and runs, the rest would be tuning it with a strange permanent grin on my face, which would definitely make people think I've gone crazy, haha

Stan: The bicycle fork pump I'm referring to has the gauge built in. Like this one from MEC wich is zero loss and has a button for adjusting (bleeding) pressure (problem is this particular pump is it's for high pressure forks - you need one with a low pressure gauge):

I just got to reading about the forks, and I had no idea the air pressure would be so low (I'd set it mid range at 8.5 psi), and rear shocks at 35 psi. I saw a 0-50 psi pump on amazon for $25, and a 0-15 low pressure gauge with relief valve for $37 (I've seen cheaper in the USA at $18 but I don't want to make yet another trip South just to pick it up. There must be cheaper and readily options available in Canada as well.)

Looking at photos of running bikes I've noticed that many, despite having what seems like having stock forks, don't have the two collars with a hose for pressure equalization between the forks (51044-1005) which I have. The forks have holes drilled. So, what happens there? People plug them, install progressive springs, and don't pressurize the forks? I know many Vmax people do that.

What oil grade do you guys use for forks and rear shocks?

Just to confirm that I will be after all switching to AW82 TR1 coils. I've done more reading and it got clear why I can't remove that HT from the stock coils.
I got lots of stuff with the GL1100 when I bought it, and there were also 2 perfect AW82 TR1 coils in the box. There were also 2 DW82 TR1 coils. I've read they have higher resistance, so I am going to look for another AW82 TR1 coil.
I've already read the walk through installation instructions on the forum. I'm waiting for the silicone HT from Helmut and another AW82 TR1. Just a heads up, I might have a question or two later, and will post photos for posterity.

Stan, remember that the ignition box output transistors require ca. 2.5 to 3.5 ohms of resistance. Measure the primary resistance of the coils and if they are in the range, then remove the ceramic resistor from the circuitry. If your ohms are below the 2.5 you risk to burn the transistors and if you are over 3.5 you will get a weak spark.