TOPIC:

Yeah, they both seem to be just outside the 'sweet point' of 2.5...
If 2.7 is acceptable, would it be a good reasonable decision to look for another coil, be it DW82, with similar 2.7 Ohm and follow the upgrade route - remove the resistor, make that three way etc. ?

BY the way, I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how to completely remove the bolts at the bottom of the front shocks. I have them undone, but,now they are spinning with the fork cylinders. I tried the broom method, as I've seen some people having success with it, but they keep spinning. I don't have the Kawasaki holding adapter. I am thinking about buying a steel rod and grinding it to that square shape, and trying that. Unless there is another easy DIY method to hold it in place. I thought about installing back the springs but I think the oil would just let them spin

Ari has made a simple tool for that. the nut of 24 mm metric size is welded to a steel rod ca 4 feet long, end flattened. Presto, you have a tool which is inserted and holds the inner part in place while you loosen the bolt.

Another option- you know that new electric impact you just bought..... get a hex drive socket for it and spin out your bolts. Always worked for me.

That's what I did Kawboy. I've seen it in educational motorcycle maintenance videos. I used my impact and a hex socket (HW10 by the way). The bolt got loose but not enough to come out and clear the piston. It's still tight in the piston but loose just enough to make the 'pair' turn together. So I need to keep the piston immobile to get that bolt out.
Getting feedback from people I understand now that what's inside the piston is hex shaped. I don't have a welding machine to weld a nut on a steel bar, I might look into using a long extension ( a few together) and a hex socket. I've been TOTALLY confused looking at the Kawasaki proper tool for this job. It's simple and square, so I was convinced it has to be square down there inside the piston. Another option is installing the springs again hoping they will keep the pistons from spinning. I think that's what people do, perhaps you did it this way Kawboy, removing those bottom bolts before removing the springs. I was thinking about it but decided to follow the service manual, and that's too bad. Sometimes the manual isn't helpful much, but of course it's written for a shop fully equipped with Kawasaki specialty tools.

Tomorrow going to 'meet' a box of AW/DW82 ignition coils and take the measurements I have those two DW82 with 2.7 Ohm so I will target 2.6-2.7. Unless I'd find all three at 2.5.

Tires mounted! Need those forks done as well!! The only thing holding me back will be the electrical system and fuel system.

Stan: If you can, get someone to pull on the inner fork leg while you're using the impact gun, that will help hold the 'piston' a bit - although it may not be enough. Easiest next option is to simply drill the heads off the bolts - once the tubes come apart, you'll be able to remove the leftover studs from the pistons with vice grips (if necessary). I've used this method many times.

While the forks are apart, you can take the opportunity to make up a piston holding tool (for the next time they have to come apart).

Yes Bucko. Exactly man! That's the plan - once I have these apart, I will see what the heck is going on and it will make sense. I will definitely make my own tool, and that will be it, done and simple. I've never had these forks apart, I don't like assuming, and this is my second bike restoration since 1983....

That's why I ask so many questions.. some perhaps making me look like I go in circles. I want stop until I feel the circle is complete, and reading all the information there is a clear proof that almost any subject is a bit deeper than a simple do this and that. Actions have consequences.

After all the different responses, I am going to buy a 15 mm in external diameter copper plumbing tube and use it for the job. Tap it into the hex, hold it, follow with unscrewing the bolt. That's my first simplest choice at the moment and I will go from that.

By the way, that stupid LG G5 , I just got it fixed - with two pieces of paper. It charges, it takes photos, it works! I will upgrade it to plastic, more moisture resistant, and I will be done with the cellphone and LG BS. If your LG removable module phone croaks, give me a shout. And I don't recommend any bullshit modular phones.

G;ad to be able to take a photo again!