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TOPIC: 1984 ZN1300 Voyager not starting

1984 ZN1300 Voyager not starting 2 months 1 week ago #21435

  • Tuomas
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Thank You all for all the ideas so far!
We have all the maintenance and service manuals and timing is now aligned properly. Small light in the DFI box does not blink at all. We are thinking of some DFI based problem but that DFI warning light in the dash stays off and also the one in the box is totally dead.
Coils were all tested separately and they are ok..for some reason engine feels like it is flooding when we try to start it.
Also we would like to know what is that bolt under small cover, in the right side of the engine, opposite to water pump? Is it just water pump shaft or cam or does it have something to do with the timing chain?

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1984 ZN1300 Voyager not starting 2 months 1 week ago #21436

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Timing was also checked and re-checked numerous times with stroboscope timing light and it is on mark (1/6 cylinder--> F-mark),
Inside smaller cdi box were three toasted triacs, they are the ones that send the triggering pulse to coils. We do not know what is the reason for that, heat or age?
This motorcycle had a new lithium style power battery installed when it broke down and we are wondering if it toasted the DFI too.

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1984 ZN1300 Voyager not starting 2 months 1 week ago #21438

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Tuomas wrote: Timing was also checked and re-checked numerous times with stroboscope timing light and it is on mark (1/6 cylinder--> F-mark),
Inside smaller cdi box were three toasted triacs, they are the ones that send the triggering pulse to coils. We do not know what is the reason for that, heat or age?
This motorcycle had a new lithium style power battery installed when it broke down and we are wondering if it toasted the DFI too.


Would you have a picture of these "toasted triacs" ?

Not sure what you mean by a "smaller CDI box" None of the "boxes" would have baked from location alone so either an over voltage or over current situation happened.

The voltage regulator/rectifier have given trouble in the past overcharging batteries and frying stators. Shindengen have the solution with their SH847 would be my choice if required. Beware of Chinese copies !!! Roadster Cycle for the genuine ones.

If I were looking in to this issue, based on the time left sitting, I would suspect the injectors are stuck and leaking. You could confirm this by setting up a pressure gauge on the fuel supply and turning on the ignition, building up fuel pressure then turning off the ignition. The fuel pressure should remain for a reasonably long period of time. If it drops off suddenly, then you have leaking injectors and they need a good cleaning.Preferably at an injector shop. There are tiny pintle filters in the top of the injectors that are usually changed out. Some people try to clean injectors with cleaning fluid in the gas and all they do is loosen up the crap in the fuel system and send the crap down and it gets caught up in the pintle filters.
The fuel system pressure regulator could also be causing you some grief. The fuel pressure needs to be 33 - 36 psi.

Last but not least, connector plugs on the electrics- all kinds of trouble with corrosion. Check your connections especially on the injector feeds. Very low amperage running here and corrosion will play havoc.
1980 KZ1300 B2 converting to an A2. Things I'm working on- Body work- Ducktail mod to rear tailpiece. Add a quarter fairing. Paint - House of Kolor Brandywine/Black. Custom decals. Engine- In house custom ground camshafts with adjustable cam sprockets.7 blade rad fan. DG exhaust pipe.

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1984 ZN1300 Voyager not starting 2 months 1 week ago #21439

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Triacs (as i call them) were black small 10mmx10mm bits with three legs, one for each coil. There was no visual damage but they were tested and two out of three were gone. I dont have a picture. We have new components bought from Japan and also one used cdi box.
What really makes this whole thing weird is that this bike run alright for one month after winter hibernation and then one day just suddenly died while driving home. And since that day we have been trying to fix it, for six months.
Today we will try another DFI-box.
Because i speak finnish as my native language, i must apologize if there is some mistakes in my messages. Hope you get the point anyways!

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Last edit: by Tuomas. Reason: Accuracy

1984 ZN1300 Voyager not starting 2 months 1 week ago #21440

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Another DFI-box tested, no success.

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1984 ZN1300 Voyager not starting 2 months 1 week ago #21441

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First, your English is excellent considering that it is a second language for you. I applaud you here.

You mentioned that you smell gas in the intake and gas in the exhaust pipe (this was in your third post) That information tells me you have a spark issue. Also if you smell that much gas, I might suggest that you have washed down the cylinder walls with gas and now suffer from low compression as well.
Not knowing what the spark plugs look like, I'll also mention that a spark plug may spark in the open air but not under compression. In the old days when I ran Kawasaki triples, we would get a miss on one cylinder so we would pull the plugs and check for spark. Plugs would have spark, but when we reinstalled them, the miss was still there. I learned early on to just go and buy a fresh set of spark plugs and install them.

Copied from the Service Manual

“IGNITION SYSTEM
The ignition system for this model is essentially a
battery and coil ignition system where the battery
supplies the current for the primary circuit in the
ignition system. However, this ignition system is transistorized
and controls the current for the primary
circuit by use of a solid state electronic switching unit
called a Darlington power transistor. The power transistors
are triggered by pick-up coils, and there are no
mechanical breaker points, so the only periodic
maintenance needed is automatic timing advancer
lubrication (Pg. 240). Since contact breaker heel wear
(with resultant retarded ignition timing), and breaker
point pitting or burning are eliminated, periodic inspection
and adjustment of the ignition timing are
not required.
The working electrical part of the ignition system
consists of a battery, three pick-up coils, an IC igniter,
three ignition coils, a resistor, and six spark plugs.”
You obviously have some experience with electrical, so I would suggest you read up on the Darlington transistors for reference.
This all started one day just after pulling the bike out of winterization and going for a ride. You stated that you were riding along and then it just suddenly stopped. That sounds electrical. You also stated finding 2 of the 3 triacs ( Darlington transistors) burnt out. The 3 leads on the Darlington transistors are power in power out and control. The Darlington’s are fairly robust when operating under normal conditions BUT if supplied with high voltage or high amperage draw will fail. Some of our members have replaced the ignition coils with low resistance coils or removed the ballast resistors to get hotter spark and have fried the CDI box (Darlington transistors) by placing a higher than normal load on the transistors. We don’t know if this was a recently purchased used bike that you now have or you have had it for a long time and this is a recent mechanical failure. Just stating this information for you to consider.
1980 KZ1300 B2 converting to an A2. Things I'm working on- Body work- Ducktail mod to rear tailpiece. Add a quarter fairing. Paint - House of Kolor Brandywine/Black. Custom decals. Engine- In house custom ground camshafts with adjustable cam sprockets.7 blade rad fan. DG exhaust pipe.

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