0h yeah, I remember! Mock ups and such definitely necessary for your project! I kind of went blindly nuts with mine, a sain thing would had been making it run first. But so many things were bad, all had to be checked, I guess at the end in my case it paid off doing everything once.
Can't hear your bike roar and see it ride! Then will come the painting and polishing. Looking forward to seeing all the next steps!
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts
Welder says Ok, it can all be done without losing frame strength or rigidity. But I now have quite a bit of metalwork to do... cut and shape the end of the new crossmembers so they fit properly before welding. Also need to review where the rear shocks will attach at the top and how I will strengthen those areas. Left side is OK as the lifting handle was there and the metal is thick at that point, but on the RH side I need to fabricate the extra metal. And then it needs two small triangular braces to make sure the design can handle the rear fork attachments being above the cross members.
I have also enquired with Hagon about their twin rear shocks to see if they can fabricate ones that will fit the bike when the frame is cut and keep the ride height the same. They said yes, no problem, not even any extra cost. Result!
I also have my eyes on a set of Ducati Multistrada front forks (Ohlins) but I need to get some advice on whether these can be adjusted to carry the extra 100kg that the KZ1300 has over a Multistrada... I have found a specialist near my work which I will go see later this week hopefully.
I did not manage to chat to the suspension guy, so still not sure if the Ducati front suspension can handle the KZ's extra weight. Hopefully I'll get some time to drive out to him next week.
But the metalwork has been done. The new cross braces are 'lipped' at each end so they fit nicely onto the frame. Next week I'll weld them in and then (after taking a deeeeep breath) cut the old cross braces. No going back then!
After that it will need two triangular pieces welded in to build in extra strength for the rear shocks, and then the rear section can be cut off to make way to the rear 'loop' behind the seat. At this point I'm not sure how I am going to bend that piece to how I want it, not having any tube bending tools...