TOPIC:

scotch wrote: It's been a while since I did this but it seems to me that I just rounded the nut to where it pressed in (tolerance fit). Might have used Loctite - I know I didn't use anything like epoxy.
Kawboy is the expert in "melt/fusing" materials so he may have an opinion but Personally: I'd go the internal "nut" option again, before I'd even consider trying to "weld" addition material on the end of the CCT. Too much heat and the end could collapse - not enough and all you'll have is a build-up that's little more then "stuck" to the end of the CCT - as opposed to properly fused.

I agree Scotch. Oil soaked aluminum castings are a bitch to weld at the best of times. Add in the thin wall- double trouble. I wouldn't attempt this one with welding.

Aluminum brazing- I've had little success with this brazing material. Never seems to bond well with the base metal. When it does fail, it seems to tear. Not sure how it would react to oil soaked aluminum either.
I'll look at this later today. Maybe a e-z lok insert would be a better choice. Depending on the casting shape, it might be possible to select an e-z lok that will thread into the side wall of the casting rather than the end wall giving more thread holding power to the casting and providing a carbon steel thread for the stop bolt and lock nut.

www.ezlok.com/alloy/Steel-~-Carbon/style...Insert/used_in/Metal

Seems to me that a "rounded nut" is the simplest and easiest method if retaining the OEM CCT is desired.

Oil soaked aluminum castings are a bitch to weld at the best of times

I agree with that for sure, and it's a recurring thought, but we are not welding an oil soaked oil pan on a running engine on the side of the road. It's easy to prep this small detachable tensioner. Ultrasonic cleaning with simple green solution, filing the surface, and a quick wipe with acetone. My bet would be there is no oil on it.
Thin wall - yes, but people weld sheet metal. I couldn't do it, but I am sure for a skilled welder it would be a walk in a park.

I found this thread while researching, so it had been done:

www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/welcome-m...-cam-chain-tensioner

Pasting a photo from that thread:



I agree, the rounded nut seems like the easiest simplest option for added stability of this mod. I am just still on the fence with keeping it in place from spinning and moving up and down the bolt, inside the tensioner. But many have had no problems without it, from what I gather, and scotch had no problem with it! So I want panic. There is always room for improvement.

On another note, the horn cover is here! I know I am bragging, but I just can't help it. By the looks of it - it is actually brand new, never used! Very happy at US $40 (free shipping )





It's also a spiritual experience! haha The package that didn't arrive from New Zealand, most likely lost or still floating somewhere in the system, had a horn cover in it. Well, no cover but at least I got a refund. And since I got a letter from the NZ post office later asking for details, which I signed with 'non delivery' and send back, I am sure the sender also got money back from the insurance. So, he's a happy boy, and it seems he was most likely an honest guy just handled it bad. I am fine as well - I got this brand new cover from Ebay! Thank you Universe! For taking care of the good people! hahahaha (shameless pat on the back)

Anyway.... The cover came with original mounting screws. The bracket - I got it much earlier. Brand new as well.



Both horns which came with the bike are bad. So, I installed Honda horns instead. They look the same, only a bit larger in diameter. And only one working - but very loud!



Now, I would definitely like to have this cover mounted. Not for every day riding, but for special occasions. The installed Honda horns sit behind the cover. Will they be in the way - I haven't checked it yet. That wouldn't be a problem though if I go with plan B: installing an air horn! In this case, I'd mount back the original Kawasaki proper horns, but have the air horn do the job. All would fit and look good.




I don't see these mounting brackets available often, if ever, so if anyone want's to DIY it, I can post the measurements. Having a welding machine for the two nuts would definitely be a bonus, but I think it can be managed without it as well.


I've heard a lot of good opinions about this Denali SoundBomb dual air horn. And since I hate loud pipes, a loud horn has proven to be very helpful and life saving riding another bike. My Goldwing came with very loud pair of horns. Not air horns, but a car like sounding ones.

Here it is - Denali SoundBomb. This will be installed on my daily rider, Vmax 1200. I'll see how it works and if happy, I'll be getting another one for the KZ1300.



Now, I'd like to see a mod allowing the use the air horn compressor for inflating flat tires!

Just to add so the other 'bracket guys' don't feel neglected. If you need measurements for horn covers of other 1300 models, I can post them as well.

This cover and bracket are not for sale - they belong in my personal 'my precious' vault.

Nice one Stan!

On horns: I have a single air horn on my police bike and it is VERY useful and has saved me a few times already by rudely waking other road users up! I cannot recommend one highly enough. It may not be original, but still worth having one. Just out it so you can easily remove it for shows etc..

Paul