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Ada Boy. That's the team spirit!! Don't let a machine beat you down.

Scotch and I have had a couple of PM's back and forth. One thing Scotch taught me was his process of clearing circuits in reverse to the flow of the circuit so as to not jam crab at the small end of the circuit. I had a carb on a Honda lawnmower engine which I had off 8-10 times and never got the idle circuit cleared. Once Scotch posted about clearing things from the throttle bores backwards I had a Eureka moment. Needles to say I removed hat dam carb from the lawnmower and cleaned it "Scotch Style" and Eureka !! the dam lawnmower runs like a Swiss watch.

Needless to say I learned something. Scotch and I are well versed in carb building and he's taught me something here and for that I'm very grateful. I'm better for it. Hopefully I can return the favor to him and or help teach those out there who are willing to ponder the thoughts we throw up on the Forum. That's where I think the Forum is a great place to share. Sometimes you find yourself beating your head against a wall and post your struggles and someone answers and suggests you look at ... and you say to yourself "Why didn't I think of that?" Sometimes it's the little shove in the right direction that makes all the difference.

Cheers
Kawboy

Just a thought here though, I was quite confident that I had cleaned the carbs very well - could it be that the float levels are set wrong and not allowing the fuel into the idle circuit?

Just to add a little info about the triggers on the Dynatek system ( wrong section I know) I managed to remove the resin from the back of my old trigger, I just had to look. Anyway I needed a magnifying glass to see but there is a very small pcb and what looked like just a soldered board, on closer inspection there are two micro chips on the board, they are so small I thought they were solder blobs to begin with - do not waste your time trying to repair it is impossible.

The feed for the idle circuit comes from the Main circuit jet. You would have to pull out the emulsion tube to see where the feed comes from in the carb body and crosses over on an angle to the entry point under the brass screw which is below the idle jet. As long as the main jet is siting in gas, the idle circuit has a feed point.

Carburetors since the beginning of time were cast and then drilled passages were bored through them. I don't care what carb you rip apart to fix, it's always the same process. You can visualize where the gas gets picked up from and then by studying the casting and looking for the lead plugs , you can visualize how the manufacturer drilled all those ports through from the beginning of the circuit to the exit point of the circuit. In order to drill a passage through the casting, sometimes they have to drill sideways through the casting and then plug the access point. that's the little lead plugs I'm talking about. A couple of times over the years I've seen plugs missing in carbs and of course that circuit wouldn't work at all.

sixpipes wrote: <"......could it be that the float levels are set wrong and not allowing the fuel into the idle circuit? >

Answer: yes. Float issues that will shut off or restrict fuel. 1) Tab set incorrectly, 2) something preventing float from dropping sufficiently to allow the needle-valve to open or 3) the needle itself is hanging-up in a closed position.

Your question raises some huge concerns regarding how you've been preceding with your work. The float-settings should have been done on "the bench" in which case you should have noticed the fuel bowl(s) taking "forever" to fill. By what method did you accomplish the "wet" setting. Are you certain the Float-needles are free to move and not being restricted by the retaining springs or anything else?

The problem with anyone trying to diagnose your problem(s) is that you've got apparent issues with ignition wiring, fuel delivery to the bowl(?), carb linkage? and probably blocked jetting? - still.
Throw into the equation an "aftermarket ignition system" with a recently replaced trigger and you can appreciate my questioning: "What else is going on/not going on, that you are unaware of and therefore can not convey to us? Your problem(s) are impossible to diagnose in a "forum" because we do not have definitive answers from which to proceed. In reality you are forcing us to assume too much, leaving us with a better chance at winning a lottery then coming up with a definitive answer(s).

Is it purely fuel delivery? Is it ignition? Is it dirty jetting? Is it internal to the carbs or is it external and linkage related? Is "something" out of correct timing? How do you have the choke and "fast-idle" setup? A leaking choke plunger will screw you over but you need to be able to diagnose that. Do all three shut off 100%. Is there any damage or deformity to the rubber seal or the seat? Do they return freely when lifted and released? Do you have the linkages set-up to get a slight amount of throttle opening with the choke lever, before the chokes actually start to lift and deliver fuel? Are you 100% certain that the return springs throughout the linkage system are closing the throttle-plates cleanly, firmly and to the idle-stop? Is the fast-idle adjustment set correctly (pg50 -E20 & E21)? ......AND, as stupid as this may sound....does your throttle cable have some slack when closed? What are you using to calibrate the carb-sync? If you're using gauges: are they calibrated? ie: Ever seen a store display of thermometers? They can all be different by several degrees. The same issue is very relevant with any gauge. It's more important to have them read accurately at a desired reading then it is to have them all "zero". Manifold them together and pull a substantial vacuum from a single source. I'll bet they all read different ! Plus or minus 1" either way across 3 separate instruments will cause idle havoc - especially if other issues exist and your adjusting to compensate. The list could go on all day, but i can't. check these things off the list - then proceed.

You're going to have to keep at this in a logical and progressive manner and establish some solid results before the issues are solvable.

As "McCoy" said to " Cptn Kirk": I'm only a doctor Jim, not a magician " !

RE:<"......on closer inspection there are two micro chips on the board, they are so small I thought they were solder blobs to begin with - do not waste your time trying to repair it is impossible.">

Impossible ? Hmmm. What you're referring to is probably SMT (surface mount technology) and the "blobs" could be diodes to prevent back-feed or capacitors to smooth-out the trigger voltage. Never had one apart, but now I have too !

I hope this raises some ideas and questions for you which in turn may give you that elusive "light-bulb" moment. It can be an enlightening experience

Well thanks one and all for all the help, 12 pages of posts but I think I have finally got there.
Another strip and clean of the carbs, methodically cleaned with thinners and all looked good, dropped them into the ultra sonic cleaner for good measure and cleaned with thinners again. That strange silicon stuff started coming out again. It seems that this silicon is virtually invisible in the ultra sonic fluid but comes out in little blobs in the thinners.
Although I thought that the cleaning solution was clean it clearly was not and this was where I was introducing contaminants.
Carbs were cleaned again just in thinners, re fitted to the bike and started. The bike now runs on all six at a steady 1000rpm, tomorrow I will tune the carbs and then I will be off for my first ride.

Good Job SP!
Here's hoping that tomorrow comes off smooth and easy!

Bill