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Sixpipes, Just buy a wig and stick with it, you'll be a better man once you get through this. Shit happens, but why it keeps happening to you, Lord knows.

I don't think that your 35 ohms difference from the other triggers is significant. Probably just a difference between manufacturers. Different wire size or number of wraps. Pretty sure the trigger is nothing more than a coil which sends a trigger voltage to the ignitor. The air gap between the rotor and trigger is important. If it's too wide the signal will be weak.

I'd hesitate "swapping things around". Could be you've developed a short in your wiring harness and you may have compromised part of the ignitor or not. I would be looking for the obvious things first. Broken wire on the primary, bad connections etc. Your volt /ohm meter is your friend here. Pull out the wiring diagram and start tracing wires.

Stripped all the ignition again, no idea why but I have 6 firing cylinders again.
That's the only good news, no idle at all again and when I put the choke on it runs up to 6000 rpm and settles there even when hot, checked butterfly's and they are closed. Used the gunsons tool and all cylinders are a nice blue flame although when I rev it it turns orange/yellow.
I am not 100% sure but I am still a little concerned about having a constant spark on 2 and 5 although it does not backfire and revs well from 2,500 rpm. Its just me being paranoid I think.
Tried the wd40 and butane method around the inlet rubbers, no change at all so I am confident that this is ok.
Where next ? Carbs back off again I suppose but for the life of me I cannot see why they would need cleaning yet again.
Sun was out today and hundreds of bikes went past my house - bloody jealous!

The only way it could be reving at 6000 rpm is if you have an intake leak (which you say you've checked for) or the throttle plates are too far open. The idle set knob is supposed to be set at 1-1/2 turns open from fully closed (initial setting) Then once you get the idle bleed screws set you can readjust the idle rpm.

How did you manage to set the idle air bleed screws with the Gunson if you can't get the idle down? I doubt that the Gunson would read blue if the choke is on.

The choke circuit on this carb set is actually a miniature carb with a very rich jet. A lot of carbs just have an enrichment to the idle circuit with a cam which opens the throttle plates slightly and a butterfly which closes the carb intake before the main jet and sucks fuel out past the main jet. Not this carb.

Have you got the air box off at this point. I'd like to know if you have throttle slides sticking. They should all move up and down together as you rev the bike up and back down. If not there's a problem.

It's difficult to diagnose from a far when we're not quite sure how you've done your initial set up. I'm still trying to help you through this. You're so close.

Ahh well, I set the idle air screws with the throttle slightly open - who's a twat then.
At this point I will not take the carbs off again, air box will come off and try from there. The last time I put the carbs on the idle was not too bad, slightly high but close. Now its all over the place so it looks as if I have done something stupid.
Still looks bloody awesome even if it does not work properly.

Don't be so hard on yourself. you're flying by the seat of your pants. I don't believe the manual tells you how to get the bird going from a complete carb strip and rebuild. It's something you have to be taught.

Sometimes when you're doing work like this it's a good thing to find the manual and read the entire section on what you're about to attempt. if you're short on info, then you should look at the equipment and realize all the possible things that may need to be set and before you take it apart, jot down the settings as found. Then you've got a point to start from.

Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Catch me once, shame on you, catch me twice, shame on me

Eureka - no it still will not run but I think I have cracked the issue.
The Gunsons colour tuner would not show a decent flame on idle, all plugs black, ran well on choke or throttle.
Ran it at 1500 rpm and removed the plug leads one at a time, only 1 and 2 showed a decrease in engine speed. This I think tells me that pots 3,4,5,6 are not getting fuel at idle - blocked idle circuits. Carbs are coming back off and I will let you know what if any improvement there is once I have stripped and cleaned them - again.