TOPIC:

kawaBCN wrote:

I continue with my task.

I replaced the parts in the carburetor repair kit, I changed everything except the needles, they were in good condition.
Some parts were very bad like this jet.

These two pieces had already been disassembled more than once, the strange thing is that they closed well and did not flood the carburetors.
 

One of the air regulation screws had a slightly bent tip, it has already been replaced.

Regarding the air regulation screws, I found them adjusted between two and a half and two and three-quarter turns from their tightening and I left them that way once they were changed.
It is a correct measure.



Seeing  that no one has answered your question yet.........
Most members have found that 3-1/2 turns out is a good place to start.
 

I already have the valve cover installed after having turned the engine until I see oil flowing through the camshaft bearings.

A new green light came on on the dashboard after cleaning the mud from the neutral sensor located under the crankcase.

This weekend I will try to install the new coils but not before asking the forum for advice, doubts continue to assail me...

I bought a set of coils that replace the original ones as well as eliminating the resistance.
This is one of the originals.


This is one of the new coils.


Now, the original coils are housed with the exit of the cables that go to the spark plugs parallel to the engine, that is, the two fastening screws perpendicular to the exit of the cables that go to the spark plugs.
While the position changes in the new coils, they are rotated 90 degrees with respect to the anchoring screws compared to the original ones.
The output cables to the spark plugs remain perpendicular to the engine block, one on top of the other.


The external appearance of the coils is also not helpful to me as they are totally different.



FIRST QUESTION:
I have the three original coils with the two wires marked 1-6,2-5,3-4.
How can I know which wire from each new coil feeds its corresponding spark plug?
How do I find out in the coil that feeds cylinder 1 and 6 which cable goes to its corresponding cylinder?
Or does the order not matter and they can be connected interchangeably?

SECOND QUESTION:
The length of the cables of the new coils is more than 30 centimeters longer than the length of the cables of the original coils.
Can the cables be shortened or is it better to leave them as they come from the manufacturer?
If they can be shortened, should the cables of the three coils be left the same length or can those of cylinders 3-4 be shorter to reduce space?

THIRD QUESTION:
Do the spark plug caps simply have to be screwed onto the wire or does some type of adhesive have to be applied between the wire boot and the plug cap housing?

Finally, as something curious, this photo is of a coil "repaired" with a hot melt gun.



A good weekend for everyone.

kawaBCN wrote:

FIRST QUESTION:
I have the three original coils with the two wires marked 1-6,2-5,3-4.
How can I know which wire from each new coil feeds its corresponding spark plug?
These are wasted spark coils. When they fire, each secondary wire will send out a spark simultaneously . It doesn't matter which secondary wire goes to Cylinder 1 or cylinder 6  ( for one coil)  for cylinder 2 or 5 (for the next coil) or 3-or 4  (for the last coil)
How do I find out in the coil that feeds cylinder 1 and 6 which cable goes to its corresponding cylinder?
Or does the order not matter and they can be connected interchangeably?

One coil will spark cylinders 1-6   (which is mounted in the center) Primary wires are yellow (+) and Black (-)
One coil will spark cylinders 2-5   (which is mounted on the right)  Primary wires are yellow(+) and  Green (-)
One coil will spark cylinders 3-4   (which is mounted on the left)    Primary wires are yellow (+) and  Blue (-)

SECOND QUESTION:
The length of the cables of the new coils is more than 30 centimeters longer than the length of the cables of the original coils.
Can the cables be shortened or is it better to leave them as they come from the manufacturer?
The secondary wires coming from the new coils should be solid wire which will have almost no resistance, so yes they can be shortened to fit better
If they can be shortened, should the cables of the three coils be left the same length or can those of cylinders 3-4 be shorter to reduce space?
You can cut them so that they fit nicely. Most people do this.

THIRD QUESTION:
Do the spark plug caps simply have to be screwed onto the wire or does some type of adhesive have to be applied between the wire boot and the plug cap housing?
You can just screw them on. 



 

from page 47 of the manual

from page 49 of the manual

Kawboy wrote:

kawaBCN wrote:

FIRST QUESTION:
I have the three original coils with the two wires marked 1-6,2-5,3-4.
How can I know which wire from each new coil feeds its corresponding spark plug?
These are wasted spark coils. When they fire, each secondary wire will send out a spark simultaneously . It doesn't matter which secondary wire goes to Cylinder 1 or cylinder 6  ( for one coil)  for cylinder 2 or 5 (for the next coil) or 3-or 4  (for the last coil)
How do I find out in the coil that feeds cylinder 1 and 6 which cable goes to its corresponding cylinder?
Or does the order not matter and they can be connected interchangeably?

One coil will spark cylinders 1-6   (which is mounted in the center) Primary wires are yellow (+) and Black (-)
One coil will spark cylinders 2-5   (which is mounted on the right)  Primary wires are yellow(+) and  Green (-)
One coil will spark cylinders 3-4   (which is mounted on the left)    Primary wires are yellow (+) and  Blue (-)

SECOND QUESTION:
The length of the cables of the new coils is more than 30 centimeters longer than the length of the cables of the original coils.
Can the cables be shortened or is it better to leave them as they come from the manufacturer?
The secondary wires coming from the new coils should be solid wire which will have almost no resistance, so yes they can be shortened to fit better
If they can be shortened, should the cables of the three coils be left the same length or can those of cylinders 3-4 be shorter to reduce space?
You can cut them so that they fit nicely. Most people do this.

THIRD QUESTION:
Do the spark plug caps simply have to be screwed onto the wire or does some type of adhesive have to be applied between the wire boot and the plug cap housing?
You can just screw them on. 






 

from page 47 of the manual

from page 49 of the manual

Thankyou Kawboy.
I follow the mechanics manual and know which color wire powers each coil.
My question refers to the two wires from each coil that connect to the spark plugs.
For example: in the coil fed with the black wire, which output wire must I connect to the spark plug of cylinder 1, both are the same.


The other question asked if I should keep the length of the wires that feed the spark plugs the same in all the coils or can I cut wherever I want.

As I mentioned in the previous post

These are wasted spark coils. When they fire, each secondary wire will send out a spark simultaneously . It doesn't matter which secondary wire goes to Cylinder 1 or cylinder 6  ( for one coil)  for cylinder 2 or 5 (for the next coil) or 3-or 4  (for the last coil)

It does not matter

I also answered that second question.

The secondary wires coming from the new coils should be solid wire which will have almost no resistance, so yes they can be shortened to fit better

So, go ahead and cut them if you want

KawaBcn, I recently replaced my coils. I can't cut and paste as this site only allows 6 links per post.. 

But it's all documented here , and you can scroll up or down to see the entire evolution.

That post has a lot of kz1300 history incorporated into it.. It's like a Readers Digest condensed version. 

Good luck, although you won't need it!