TOPIC:

biltonjim wrote:

A bit of help, is worth a lot of pity - so the saying goes.  I would try to help at every opportunity if I could, but I have virtually no hands-on experience of this Kawasaki.  I bought my KZ about seven years ago - a non-runner needing restoration. Due to circumstances, It has been in storage 25 miles away for at least 6 1/2 years, during which time I have not seen it, let alone done any work to it.   I have the factory manual to hand, but of course that does not describe the repair of switch gear. So it comes down to experience - of which, as I say, I have little regarding this bike.  I'm sure there will be other users of this forum who could have answered this question from KawaBCN, but perhaps they only come here when they themselves need advice. 

I saw the post but have zero experience with disassembling that switch. I'd rather remain silent look like an idiot instead of typing and proving it!
 

Thanks for the answers to the main switch issue, this week I will disassemble all the pens I have at home in order to find a spring that fits the part in question and be able to rebuild it.

Ball point pen springs will not have enough force. You need to measure the spring wire diameter, the length and the diameter and source compression springs more suitable. 
I have had good luck at automotive supply stores in the past. They usually have a spring assortment.

I came across these at amazon and I'm no saying these are appropriate, Just an example when doing a search.

Amazon spring assortment

Yesterday, Sunday, I went down to the garage for a while to continue assembling the motorcycle.

I set about regulating the air/fuel mixture of the carburetors.
So I installed the air filter, plugged the water pump outlet and filled the engine block with coolant so that the seal would not run dry.
Yes, I know, It is not a pretty cap to look at but it is effective to use.



I added fuel and started the engine.
With a deafening noise he was doing 30/45 second stints with the engine running to adjust the carburetor screws until he saw the flames change from yellow to blue.
After repeating the operation several times, the coil that feeds cylinders 2/5, the one with the green cable, failed for no apparent reason.


 

I separated all the connections until I reached the pickup and sprayed them with electrical cleaning fluid, nothing, no sign of spark. I loosened the electronic ignition advance adjustment screws and tightened them again, there was still no spark in that coil.

To check that it was not a defective coil, all three are new, I removed the spark plug from cylinder 2, disconnected the coil from the green wire that powers it and connected it to the black wire from the coil of cylinders 1/6.
I turned the engine over and there was spark, the coil didn't fail.

I also connected the green cable to the coil of the 1/6 cylinders and there was no response when turning the engine.
After a few attempts I gave up trying further.

This morning with the engine cold it started the first time working perfectly but when it warmed up a little the engine...

FAILED AGAIN!

The pickup has not warmed up, only the engine, cylinder block and cylinder head.



I will need to hire the services of an automotive electrician to come and check the ignition circuit with a tester, I no longer know more about this topic.


I forgot...

I detected this coil failure before disassembling the bike but I attributed it to some old coils, I bought the new coils for that reason believing that the problem would be solved.
 

The pick-up coil inspection / test is explained on page 242 of the Service Manual. It is a simple resistance test with a multimeter.

I fear your problem is a bad Darlington Transistor in the igniter. That is more likely.

This was a very interesting work around for an igniter replacement.  Agonmarine's HEI ignition module replacement for the KZ1300 igniter . He basically used 3 GM HEI ignition modules to fire the 3 kz1300 ignition coils Probably cost him less than half what a new igniter would cost. 

You could get lucky and find a igniter on EBay and if it came off of a low mileage bike, would be fine too. 

What probably happened here was a bad ignition coil shorted and caused a high current draw on the Darlington transistor and fried the Darlington.

Knowing what you paid for this bike, I feel like you really got taken to the cleaners. Sorry this happened to you and I give you a pat on the back for sticking it out. You are an inspiration for this site. Thank you !!

The Carmo improved igniter is worth considering. It lists numerous advantages over the original.

www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=product...f19fko6n26l2a4mujne1