TOPIC:

Stan, referring to the spacer on the drive shaft / coupling, the manual is a disappointment as far as being any help goes. I can't see ANY reference or illustration of it. Very poor! Unless I can't see for looking?
The 92055D item in the illustration is, according to the parts list, an 'O' ring.

I can't help with any ideas for removing the clutch basket, not having tackled the job myself.

StanG wrote: The clutch basket has to come off, completely. Still no proper tool for the job. It's just a cleaning job, and I have new friction plates. Any redneck removal suggestions?
The copper penny doesn't work. I've seen a few solutions, but I need a DIY professional one.

Unless you have the Kawasaki tool for holding the basket the only way to remove it is to impact the nut off while the basket is free to rotate. You can either use a socket and air impact, or a socket on a short bar and smack the bar with a hammer. Whatever you do don't try holding the basket with a strap wrench as you'll crush the basket. And don't jamb a bar across the tangs on the basket 'cause you'll break off one of the tangs. Also remember that you have chains, (camshaft drive and water pump chains) lying down below, so you don't want the secondary shaft turning or you'll fudge up the chains.
Best option is the air impact and hold the basket with your spare hand.

Biltonjim - yes, that first ring is an o-ring. Then a spacer and a circlip. I will post a proper photo once I get the spacer.
The install goes like this: align the shaft with the swing arm profile (the swing arm is not totally round but flat on the sides, and the gear end on the shaft has two sides ground flat to let it through the swing arm), install the o-ring on the shaft, grease all, push the swing arm over the drive shaft, align and push the swing arm shafts into the bearings (pay attention to where the wholes for the spring pins are - align them with a bolt hole). Now that the swing arm is attached, push in the coupling all the way until stops (there will be some resistance from the o-ring, the gear side closer to the edge goes towards the bike), install the spacer, install the circlip. Done

I applied a very thin layer of a copper based anti sizing compound on the shafts.

Thank you Kawboy. I will try the 'smack the bar' method first. I've been paranoid about damaging the basket so yes, I stayed away from applying any pressures on it to jam it still. If the nut doesn't give way soon, I think I will just have to look into getting an electric impact gun. I've seen it done this way on the web, but I was trying to avoid the purchase... As always, I will report back how it went.

Found an online impact gun at the Canadian Tire - regular price 179.99 +tax, on special 53.99 +tax. Noooooo shit!!! With 40+ close to 5 stars reviews, it's a no brainier. The timing couldn't be better. Did I say it again - no coincidences!?

It took a few seconds to get that nut off. The gun is listed as 240 ft-lbs torque. Smooth as butter. The socket size - 27 mm.



Simple and all off for reference

What's inside.
Shit looking surfaces difficult to clean when all is in one piece. It will be easy now!



A bit more inside - I bet the oil would rinse this out, but where would the garbage go? Filter? After passing through crank shaft bearing? Nope, not worthy a chance.



The back side looks great - it means all the brown stuff is superficial. No need digging in deeper!



These rubber dumpers are clean and soft. Very happy. This confirms - no need to dig deeper.



Some cleaning and soaking the friction plates in fresh oil The clutch assembly will go back togeher soon.

Oh yeah, just to confirm and say thank you Kawboy again - the impact gun works! Get one folks!