TOPIC:

Masking of the head done. I used painters masking tape and disposable plastic caps which are used to block holes in (for example) hydraulic components like valves etc. when selling them.







Painting of the head done. Back on the shelf to cure for a couple days and the masking will come off.

Remember the short exchange about the 'castrated' and full range speedo? I got an new arrival yesterday!!
Now I can investigate. But not just now yet. I will take my time later when I can't do anything else, take it apart and refresh. It seems to just need the outside box painted, as everything works. Not too shabby at 55 US dollars!

All the masking is off and now half way through cleaning up after painting. Also, sorting all the parts so I know where I'm standing when it comes to o-rings, gaskets, and checking if everything is in order and ready for installation. Good to do it beforehand to catch anything that needs attention - just found out that when they chrome plated the upper hose housing they also plated the thread for the fan switch! I need to clean it up and hopefully I have the tool for it. Or hopefully the auto shop will have it. Not sure what the thread size it is.









I have a question. Do you use liquid gasket on both sides of the gasket on oil pan and the cylinder block? How about the coolant housings which use paper gaskets, or tensioners? Now, how about the cylinder head cover?
How do you seal the fan switch thread? Teflon tape, thread sealant, liquid gasket?

Despite the first of the the reed valve covers looks dull in the photo, they are actually quite shiny. Not as much as scotch's, but fine. I had an idea about chrome plating them, but I don't feel the need of doing it yet. They will be on and off later for valve adjustments, and they look just fine now. The edges are also sharp after removing the masking tape as well. Kind of hard to show everything off in this light. I didn't tape the bolt holes on the cover as they are not crucial and don't require much torque, and when I tried the paint holds up very well.

Very nicely done, Stan. The cylinder head looks as good as new, inside and out. I don't remember you installing the valves - guess it must be a long time ago. And the cylinder bores have a nice cross-hatch on them.

I would tend not to use compound on the oil pan, cylinder head cover, and tensioners. Just my opinion. The manual does state that the cylinder head cover rubber plugs ( 4 ) should have compound applied. Also, the fan switch threads likewise.

Thank you biltonjim!
Now I know why the line around the first reed valve cover looks weird - I had some copper anti-sizing compound on my fingers and it got there and reflected light when I took the photo!
I read in the manual, if I remember correctly, to apply liquid gasket on both sides when installing the cylinder block. I'm not sure yet which way to go. It doesn't have to be all over the gasket, but there is a minimal pitting here and there, so a thin layer of liquid gasket would fill those in. I am just dreading a thought about cleaning the surfaces up if I want to pull the top end one day again. And I have another cylinder block from an A1 I think, which is in an almost perfect shape and one day I might want to use it, so I will have the side pick up compartment, empty, as a storage. I just need to fabricate a piece to correctly seal the shaft hole instead of plugging it permanently. I don't want to damage the contact surface and keep that block original good to go on an earlier model if such need would one day arrive. Or, if I was going to sell it, it would be a perfect set already with broken in matched barrels and rings, ready for a direct swap.