TOPIC:

Got the cylinder block installed. Now, having a hell of a time fitting that timing chain sprocket.. It was hell getting it off because of tightness, now the same thing. Almost there but can't just push it far enough to push it all the way (the knock pin is aligned with the notch, the chain is engaged).

Any practical tips?

Never mind, it's done

I cut some strips from aluminum cans, sanded with 600 the contact side and fitted over the pistons.

The #3 and #4 are at the top dead center. Applied engine oil.

THING TO SPOT: it helped me a lot to have 3 strong plastic ties on each of the four furthest to the left and right engine studs. They really help lowering the cylinder block with control and prevent it at the same time from dropping.



I ended up having a pair of helping hands. Me - sitting an the floor fitting the pistons in, the helper sitting in the bike (pillow under bottom for comfort) and controlling the gradual lowering of the block by lightly tapping on it right side or left. I worked great!

How did the 'can compressors' work? Definitely a help, but they are too thin and can and most likely will follow the piston into the sleeve. You need to spot it and pull them back. It happened to two of those, by 2 millimeters, and one I had to remove, and the other was fine after lowering it.

This is how it went: #3 worked fine with the can compressor, #4 I had to remove it and squeeze the rings in by hand, #2 and #5 went fine but I removed the compressor after installing top 2 rings then removed it, #1 and #2 - because of them sitting the lowest and the sleeves already very low, I removed the can compressors worrying I will have trouble pulling them out later as the block lowers, and squeezed the rings in by hand.

These can help if there is nothing else available, and the plastic ties on the studs are in my opinion indispensable. I would never do this job again without them. My helper had no mechanical knowledge and had to just follow my direction, which were to tap the block right or left side. Thanks to the ties, we had no problem controlling the descent of the block, and could even leave it as is for a short break as I was checking both front and back sides to check and correct the rings.

I would highly suggest making the compressors from a thicker aluminum sheet - rolling it up to the size and then strong plastic tie will keep them squeezed. Other than that, if I was going to do it again, I would get two of the ring compressors from the Biker's Toolbox website. If you want it even easier, four.

The whole process took about 2 hours, including 1 on preparations and 1 on actual installing the pistons. All works great, very happy ti see the pistons move in sleeves!

The head is also already bolted on. All pins, o-rings, chain guides - all is in. I highly recommend laying all out down to where each nut and bolt goes, and making a mental dry walk through before the actual work with the details about the order of tightening down and torque.

The manual has it all described, but it goes like this: first 16 nuts from the center top as #1 going counterclockwise at 18 ft-lbs, then the 2 outer bolt 52 in-lbs, then inner 2 bolts 52 in-lbs. Next - same sequence but 16 nuts 29 ft-lbs then 4 bolts 87 in-lbs.
Re-tightening after first engine warm up and coll down, and second after I was told 500 miles.

WARNING: remember applying some thick assembly lubricant where the two little rubber pieces go on top of the shaft of the cam chain tensioning sprocket go, insert them and add some more lubricant. They are very easy to drop inside the engine so I kept them off till last minute. They also have an 'up' mark, so that side goes up!

That's the rubber dumper I am mentioned above. Easy to drop inside the engine when disassembling or assembling, and easy to forget! You can't put it there once the head is on - it would have to go off again.