THE MOMENT OF TRUE.

I may have answered my own query. Although the Z1300 parts diagrams don't list the float valve O ring seperately, a bit of goggling and found part number 92055-1101 Float Needle Valve 7.5mm x 1.5mm, listed for a heap of multi cylinder Kawasaki's although not Z1300. But almost certainly same O ring. I'm thinking Kawboy's original post on this might have had a typo and indeed should be 7.5mm inside diameter. Back to the seal shop.
 

RBY wrote:

I may have answered my own query. Although the Z1300 parts diagrams don't list the float valve O ring seperately, a bit of goggling and found part number 92055-1101 Float Needle Valve 7.5mm x 1.5mm, listed for a heap of multi cylinder Kawasaki's although not Z1300. But almost certainly same O ring. I'm thinking Kawboy's original post on this might have had a typo and indeed should be 7.5mm inside diameter. Back to the seal shop.


 

Yes, you are correct. My mistake. the o-rings are 7.5mm inside diameter x 1.5mm cross section. Having moderator rights, I went back in and corrected the information post on page 4.
Good catch by you.
Usually the sizing of parts are referenced from the O.D. but for some reason o-rings are sized by the I.D. ??? Why can't they stick to a standard??
When I bought these o-rings from High Tech Seals my bill of sale referred to them as MV8 which is a 8mm x 1mm o-ring looking at the charts that's 8mm I.D. x 1mm cross section.
For info purposes- standard o-ring compression is 10% so on an o-ring with a cross section of 1.5mm, 10% would be .15mm (.006") , meaning that the diameter of the valve needle seat should be .3mm  (.012") less than the measured diameter of the o-ring as mounted on the needle seat. This is all you really need to know when selecting an o-ring. Just remember 10% compression.

This week I received the calendar of motorcycle and classic vehicle meetings so I thought about getting my hands on Christine again so I could present her in public as another of my collection girls.

I left it on standby in July, before the holidays, so I started where I left off, reviewing the timing chain tuning and the camshaft notches.
To my surprise, the intake valve shaft was one tooth advanced from where it was supposed to be after counting the 17 links of the chain.

The intake valve camshaft is correctly in place.
 

The intake valve camshaft one tooth forward.
The blue arrow indicates where the sync point should be.
 

Once the problem is solved, everything is in its place.

 

Now I have checked the valve timing and adjusted the shims in the intake of cylinders 4 and 6, their tolerance was 0.03mm and I left them at 0.05mm like the rest of the valves.
The exhaust valve on cylinder 4 was at 0.06 and I have adjusted it to 0.10 like the rest of the exhaust valves.

Next I checked the compression of each cylinder.

To my surprise, cylinders 1 and 4 have ZERO compression, while cylinders 2,3,5 and 6 give values ​​above 130PSI.
I have poured oil into cylinders 1 and 4 to rule out a piston ring problem, they are still without pressure, the problem is with the valves.
Now I have where to start, I have left the radiator drain plug open to drain the coolant, next week I will remove the cylinder head and see how the valves are, if they are bent or pitted by rust like the ones I changed in the first repair a year ago.


 

One step at a time... it's good to have patience...

Bent valves for sure . I just counted the links in the picture and I count 15 1/2 links so the intake cam is 30 degrees crankshaft advanced from where it should be. In the firing order 153624 153624 1 follows 4, so no surprise to hear 2 bent valves in sequence.
Rusted pitted valves would give low readings by a small amount. Zero compression is a gross leak.
I'm surprised that you managed to get the shims reset to proper clearance. A bent valve will hold the valve open and usually, you can't find a shim thick enough to fill the excessive clearance.

Admiring your patience and persistance. I need to buy you a beer when we meet, remind me of that.
Holger