Kawboy's restoration/conversion of a 1980 KZ13

Finished assembling the starter motor today and tested. Looking good.

Next, I decided to check the oil pressure relief valve. Testing it with air pressure, it was relieving at 5 psi . The spec is 63 - 85 psi. So I disassembled the valve and I find a chunk of metal just beside the seat which was probably holding the ball off the seat. Cleaned it all up and reassembled. Tested again and it started to pass (leak) at 25 psi. The plan will be to try lapping the seat and see if I can get it to hold.



not much to these relief valves

 

You can see the chunk of metal at 3 o'clock in the pic.

I keep saying it  "Attention to detail". If you're going to pull the oil pan and you should to inspect the oil pick up tube strainer screen, it would be a good time to check the oil pressure relief valve. This one was passing but probably not at full bore. Passing would have left the oil pressure lower than it could be and may not have caused any damage unless the oil was really hot. Scotch has measured  70 psi cold and as low as 28 psi hot. I'll get this one fixed so that it holds at 65 psi minimum as it should.

I lapped the seat this morning with Autosol. It's a polishing compound but I thought I would try it first before going to valve lapping compound. It worked !! Reassembled the valve and tested again. Now it opens at 73 psi. All good.

Following the instructions for engine removal on page 96 of the manual, removed all necessary attachments except the last 2 lower bolts. I have an idea for removing and I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Not the shop I had before but this is what I have to work with, so no more procrastination. Time to get on with it.


 

I had this idea on how to pull the engine without the ability to hang it from a support above since I would have needed to find a roof truss in the ceiling and install an eyebolt or something similar. My thinking was to slide the engine out on a couple of pieces of wood and in order to do that I needed a flat surface on the bottom of the engine.
Took off the oil pan and oil pick up tube and I had my flat surface.. 2 pieces of 2x2 pine would hold the engine high enough to clear all of the brackets. A couple of car stands would support the 2x2 once the engine was out. Then all I needed to do was raise the engine in situ and set it on the pine 2x2's. Got a rachet strap and slung the engine off of the center frame tube and raised the engine. Installed the 2x2's and set the engine down on them and supported the outboard ends with the car stands. Removed the rachet strap and then slid the end out. What a treat. Nice and easy. No bumping into anything and damage some part of the engine.
Now all I had to do was pick up the engine, turn around and set it on the table. What a beast !! First time I grabbed it and tried to lift I stopped and thought nope,  this is not going to work. Rethinking the eyebolt idea - well that won't work unless I lift it up and move the table under the raised engine. Now I'm tight for space and thought I won't be happy relocating the table so back to plan A. Grabbed hold of the engine and picked it up, spun around and sat the engine on the table. 20 years ago, I wouldn't have thought twice. Now 68 and I seem to catch myself before I do something stupid and hurt my self. this time it was "Damn the torpedoes, full steam ahead."
Now let's get to splitting the cases.

 

Engine slid out and still sitting on the rails

 

Rail setup now that the engine is on the table

 
And a pic of the engine on the table

So, engine was in the frame at 7:30 and at 1:30 the engine is split and final measurements of the slack in the primary and secondary chains is done.
Primary chain measured 21mm slack
Secondary chain measured at 17mm.
Time to look around for the 2 chains I had made up at Ramsay Chain in North Carolina USA. Downstairs in a box but I did see them a few months ago when looking for other parts.
Everything else inside looks really good, so I'm not going any further than replace the chains as far as the internals go. 

It's hard to believe these chains are still within service limits, although they are at the maximum limit.


 

The use of rails reminded me of this photo of when an engineer had a good detail with the mechanics designing this system to quickly and easily extract the engine.


 

By the way, if the rails were made of square metal tube the motor would slide better.

And one last question:
What type of paste do you use to seal the two parts of the engine block?

kawaBCN wrote:

The use of rails reminded me of this photo of when an engineer had a good detail with the mechanics designing this system to quickly and easily extract the engine.


 

By the way, if the rails were made of square metal tube the motor would slide better.

And one last question:
What type of paste do you use to seal the two parts of the engine block?

My only concern about using metal bars would be damaging the sealing face of the oil pan.

Regarding sealer for the crankcase- Either Yamabond or Hondabond or Threebond 1127 (which just happens to be both the Yamabond and Hondbond repackaged for Yamaha and Honda)

1so I found myself spitting quarters this morning. I'm looking at the lower crankcase at the main bearing journals and I see plain bearings and grooved bearings and I've never seen that before. So I go and look at the main journal bearings in the upper half and I see they are mixed too. Bearing that in mind, I also remember when taking out the 11 crankcase upper bolts, I could only find 9 of them. Not wanting to miss any, I referred back to the service manual and found the 2 empty holes. There is absolutely no reason for those bolts to have come out except to split the crankcase. So I got mad thinking some previous owner had split the engine and when he put it back together, misplaced the bearing shells.
So I open up the service manual and there's absolutely nothing referring to the bearing shells. NOTHING  !!!!
I open up the parts manual and see that main bearings #1, #3, #5, #7 have a grooved upper and lower shell half and #2, #4, #6 have plain bearings with no groove. Never in my life have I seen that kind of arrangement so lesson here- don't rely on your knowledge of "best practice" and when you get in a jackpot, STOP and find the answer before jumping to conclusions. I caught myself from doing something really stupid here  by making an assumption. Thank God I decided to look in the parts manual. Now I got to figure out where the bearing shells need to be because, when I split the crankcase and removed the lower half, a couple of shells fell out of the lower crankcase half.