Kawboy's restoration/conversion of a 1980 KZ13

dcarver220b wrote:

Measurements of Z1300.de seal and others here. Maybe of some help ?

 

Websites in Europe with stock:

www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/49063-1001

www.zed-parts.com/product-page/49063-1001zp-mechanical-seal

www.z1300.de/
Part number MCG 490631001
 

So, here's where I'm at. Pulled the cylinder liners out of the cylinder block by putting the cylinder block on the BBQ @ 350F for 45 minutes. Knocked out the liners with a block of wood and small hammer. In the process of looking at replacing the liners with custom liners to accommodate KZ750 (66 mm)  pistons. In the meantime, I've cleaned up 5 of the 6 stock liners and they could be reused if the cost of the custom liners ends up being ridiculous.


Bare cylinder block without liners. Note that on cylinders 1,2,3,4 the brown grunge indicating that the upper o ring had failed allowing coolant to leak in to the area around the cylinder sleeve upper flange, yet this engine was not torn down for a leak at the head gasket, so this confirms to me that if I were to go to custom sleeves, I could get away with no o rings at the top of the liner. This practice is similar to what happens when you install Darton Sleeves in most V8 engines.

 
Cylinder 3 & 4 were the worst for leakage as noted by the build up of grunge

 
5of the 6 cylinder liners cleaned up and ready for reinstallation if I don't go with custom sleeves.

Kind of off topic, but what's the plan to ensure adequate cooling capacity to handle big bore heat? Millyard used two oem radiators and electric pump, IIRC?
 

dcarver220b wrote:

Kind of off topic, but what's the plan to ensure adequate cooling capacity to handle big bore heat? Millyard used two oem radiators and electric pump, IIRC?




 

An interesting point to consider.
If I planned on racing this bike and planned on maximum output for sustained time periods, yes, I would have to consider upgrading the colling system, but if I use it like a normal bike with short bursts of WHOOPEE then i would expect the stock rad to handle the heat load. I have upgraded the rad fan to a 7 blade fan and I feel that the airflow is probably 30- 40 % more than the 4 blade fan was.


I've also decided to internally coat the exhaust system to keep the heat down at the front of the bike rather than letting all those 6 downpipes expose the front of the engine to heat from the headers. if I had the original stock double wall exhaust, I probably wouldn't go to this trouble but the DG system is a single wall and there's just too much info on this site about high temps frying the ignition coils and hot oil temps in the engine oil. The stock exhaust surrounds the oil pan. Did they not think that heat from the exhaust wouldn't heat up the oil pan??? 

I've also got Cerakote to ceramic coat the pistons, the combustion chamber and the exhaust ports. that should help contain the heat, reducing the heat to the cylinder head reducing the load on the cooling system. Cerakote on the pistons should reduce the heat absorbed by the piston and reduce the heat soaked up by the oil on the bottom side of the piston. Cerakote in the exhaust ports should help contain the heat in the port until it gets to the header and reduce the heat transferred to the cylinder head at the exhaust port.
 

So why would I do all this?? I do a lot of research on high performance engines and I've always wanted to try all the different strategies to see what I can do with the information and my skills just for shits and giggles. It's all fun to me.

It's been 4 years since we moved house and I'm still not completely unpacked so..... I went looking for my cylinder hone and finally found it.

This is my Sunnen hone and unfortunately it's a 2.5" - 3.5" hone which is now listed for over $900 CDN, so I had to go and buy another hone.

 

On its way for $127 CDN. includes 4 sets of stones , 120, 180, 230, 320 grit. Won't be delivered for another 3 weeks. I guess I have lots of time for cleaning and sleeve installation.

 

Just working on cleaning up the cylinder block before reinstalling the cylinder liners. I don't know if anyone is interested in how I clean up gasket surfaces, but I'll go through my process and you'll see why in the pics.
First, I'll scrape off the remaining gaskets with an Ex-Acto knife.
Second, taking a smooth flat file single cut and large enough to span the entire face, clean off the remaining spots of gasket material.
Third wrap the file with 400 wet dry paper and go over the gasket surface and clean up to clean bare metal. I do this with a cross hatch pattern being careful not to remove any base metal if I can.
 
From this appearance after using the Ex-Acto knife to

 
this which is what I expect a clean gasket surface to look like.

 
this is a smooth single cut 12" lathe file and a piece of 400 grit wet / dry paper

 

and finally, you can see 2 spots on the front side of the cylinder in front of #3 and #4 cylinder with gasket / gasket sealer still there. using a straight edge, I found these 2 divots and without measuring, I would guess they are .002 - .003" deep. In this case, after the liners are installed, I'll have to send the block out and have this surface machined flat because the liners will likely not be on the same plane as the block deck . Had I come across this without removing the liners, I still would have had the block decked. These imperfections could lead to to an antifreeze leak. Don't think that gasket sealer will seal stuff like this. It might depending on what sealer you choose or it may not. Why take a chance. You have to realize that the coolant passages are subject to coolant pressure and depending on the pound pressure of your rad cap, the coolant pressure could be 8-12 lbs.