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Carb rebuild continues with some cautionary notes. 9 years 3 months ago #5479

  • KZQ
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Hi Scotch,
Thanks for composing this great thread I have moved your "Cautionary Notes" thread into the main thread for now. Eventually, I'm sure that your effort will be rolled up as one of the best reference resources for Kawasaki Sixes known. I'm not sure what form that will take. I hope you don't mind my reconfiguring things in the meantime. I have not, nor will I, delete any of it.

Thanks

Bill
1947 Indian Chief, 1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 Kawasaki W3, 1976 KZ900 A4, 1979 KZ750 B4, 1979 KZ750 B4 Trike, 1980 KZ550, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1985 Kawasaki ZN1300, 1987 Yamaha Trail Way, 2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1981 GL 1100, 2009 Yamaha RoadLiner S

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Carb rebuild continues with some cautionary notes. 9 years 3 months ago #5481

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Hi Bill: Organize and sort as necessary and best for the Forum. All I ask of anyone is to give appropriate credit for anything used outside this Forum.

thanks !
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !

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1979 Carb. Rebuild (Pt 2): The reassembly begins. 9 years 3 months ago #5520

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Apologies if some of the pictures appear out of sequence. This entire article has been produced for those unfamiliar with these carbs although others may benefit as well. Everything described and pictured is done so with ordinary tools and supplies. (some slightly and easily modified). I have personally learned volumes from this rebuild and would appreciate any technical corrections being brought to my attention.

NOTE: The seals on the throttle shaft ends could be damaged if soaked excessively in strong cleaners such as lacquer-thinner. The use of lacquer-thinner for manual surface cleaning and gallery flushing using a syringe is OK.
















































1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
The following user(s) said Thank You: KZQ, PaulD

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Last edit: by scotch. Reason: clarification

1979 carb. rebuild (Pt 3): The final steps 9 years 3 months ago #5640

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Finally got the last of the polishing done. Not "Show-Room" by any means but a huge improvement over the original condition. All the adjustments that can be pre-set have been done and now simply need to put them on my bike and sync them, set up the fast-idle/choke adjustment and tweek the idle-air screws by EGT to get each cyl. dialed in. Of course that is assuming that everything is "A" OK and the bike will actually do an intiial fire-up on them as pre-set and that they will subsequently accept the final adjustments and run as required (planned).
Since starting this project and documenting it on this forum I have discovered (as I'm certain many already are aware of) there is a wealth of info already out there that encompasses this topic in various formats and some in great general detail although specific subject matter and finer points on these Mikuni carbs. is little to none. Hopefully what i have put forth is both helpful, accurate and informative to a point of actually being useful. Even if it's only informative for one person !

#1 NOTE: There are are number of internet articles regarding the very specific design and machining of fuel jets. These articles state very emphatically that when cleaning jets, attention be paid to not changing any shape to the entry and discharge-end bevels and steps that are specifically designed into the jet for optimum fuel dispersion. This includes the smoothness of the jet bore which is factory "reamed" for smoothness and perfect symmetry - not simply drilled. When having to deal with scale and mineral build-up in our jets, soaking and ultra-sonic cleaning will not always remove this foreign material. Therefore use caution in how aggressively you remove this material "by hand". Remember: We're "cleaning" - NOT re-manufacturing these critical parts, so go-at-it gently and with discretion !

#2 NOTE: The seals on the throttle shaft ends could be damaged if soaked excessively in strong cleaners such as lacquer-thinner. The use of lacquer-thinner for manual surface cleaning and gallery flushing using a syringe is OK.

#3 NOTE:When choosing a knob for the fast idle screw mod. it's recommended the dia. not exceed 5/8" to avoid contact with the fuel-tank while operating the throttle. Insulation in the linkage travel area should be removed as well.

Cheers and Merry Christmas.

ATTENTION BILL: Sorry dude by I hijacked your "Gift" idea ! see the last photo. :P
































1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
The following user(s) said Thank You: Toddh, zed_thirteen, A1, PaulD

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Last edit: by scotch. Reason: supplememnt

1979 carb. rebuild final steps 9 years 3 months ago #5641

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A great write up and one that should be saved for future reference.

The black crinkle coat is a nice touch

T.
KZ1300 A-4 4TH 1300 IN 30 YEARS
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978

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1979 carb. rebuild final steps 9 years 3 months ago #5642

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Have been watching with interest as well - very nice result.

The rather trouble-some balancing screws for setting the vacuum- mine look like they were made in a vice with a hand file - no two nuts are the same. Any plans for those ?

Merry Christmas to you and yours.
glenn
" If you can't say what you think, very soon you won't be able to think !
OKANAGAN FALLS. BC ,Canada

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