TOPIC:

Battery box no3 attempt successful!

I had to turn the welder all the way down to almost zero, and even then had to be very quick with my tacks. But it seems to have worked.

Lid is press fit and will have a security screw on the side, the inside is lined with a think layer of soft rubber/felt, there are two holes at the bottom for starter solenoid and earth cables, and the lid has a thick rubber pad so it keeps everything in place and insulated.

.. Happy!





Now I can start finalising the wiring.

Additional: inserted key lock.

McBoney wrote: Battery box no3 attempt successful!

I had to turn the welder all the way down to almost zero, and even then had to be very quick with my tacks. But it seems to have worked.

Lid is press fit and will have a security screw on the side, the inside is lined with a think layer of soft rubber/felt, there are two holes at the bottom for starter solenoid and earth cables, and the lid has a thick rubber pad so it keeps everything in place and insulated.

.. Happy!

Now I can start finalising the wiring.

Additional: inserted key lock.

Looking good
almost there...

Myeah... not quite. It's the little things finishing up that take the time.

I got my new speedo halfway plumbed in and then discovered it was the wrong one (for a car). Undo everything again. I still have to figure out how to a) cut a hole 64mm dia in a curved headlight binnacle and b) how to fit a flat speedo to a curved binnacle. I have been told to make a ring to fit from either Delrin(?) or Sugru(?). I'll have to google that to see what it is, where I can get it and if that will work.

It also took four attempts to get the battery box into the frame right, and then another three tries fitting the battery before I decided to cut part of the battery to accommodate the terminals.

I have just only found a fuel sender unit that fits my tank.... which has a weird bolt pattern - not sure if standard, but it looks original, can't explain it.

Then I discovered that the speedo needed two more wires from the back to the front of the bike, so I undid all the heat shrink, pulled two more lines through, heat shrink again... ran out of heat shrink... UGH! Gotta wait until more is delivered.

etc etc.. familiar story I'm sure to anyone building stuff form scratch without a manual... all good fun though!

On a more serious note, I am getting close to the end, and so today I reached out to someone who hopefully will build me a custom exhaust. If they can do what I required, once the wiring is finished, it can go there. Once it comes back, its firing up time!

Couple of weeks! (he says, everything crossed)

Never a dull moment !

You seem to be heavy in to the fabrication aspect of bike building and possibly not got yourself a really descent welding machine. I love fabricating things and with my background as a pipe fitter welder, I went out and blew a load on a Thermal Arc 186 welder. It has AC DC capability with pulse and high frequency. I can weld ANYTHING with it. When I bought it (new) 10 years ago, it was $1800. It's now up to $2600. I would imagine there are some out there used available.
AC for aluminum with the high frequency.
DC for everything else - stick or TIG.
Pulse is really nice. I can adjust its frequency and modulate the high current / low current ratio. I managed to butt weld 22 gauge carbon steel with ease.

Food for thought.

Yes, the welder I use is quite old and very heavy duty - owned by the mill. More suitable to weld inches-thick H-beams and drive shafts etc. It was fine for the chassis work, but for the more intricate work I have to rely on the welder from the fitters next door.

I have already promised myself for the next project I will buy a proper one for myself, one that can do aluminium as well. I also have my KZ1000P and the Mercedes to do at some stage so it will be used, plus, like you, I love fabricating.

Maybe selling all the parts I have left over can pay for it!

Paul