TOPIC:

Hi all, it's been a while. Apologies. Been busy riding!

The clutch issue has been solved with a new cable... but (of course) I have a new issue... 

I have just taken the KZ apart for its 1000 mile oil change. Glad to state that no large pieces of metal came out of the oil pan and filter - result I think.

However, I have just measured all the valve clearances and they are all very tight.

All inlets bar one are less than 0.05mm and all exhaust bar one are between 0.15 and 0.20mm.

I am pretty sure I did all the clearances properly when I first put the engine together….. is it usual that they all tighten up after 1000 mile running in?

I have not yet measured the shims that are currently in, but will do that over the next few days, then take it from there.

Paul
 

McBoney wrote:

….. is it usual that they all tighten up after 1000 mile running in?

 

It's not unusual at all.  At the factory, they would purposely set shim clearance at the large end of the range so that the clearance would be in 'sweet spot' after initial break in.
 

Thanks. I took the camshafts off and re-shimmed. Then put back together. Should be fine now.

Whilst I was at it, I rebalanced the carbs (they were only a little bit out) and re-set the fuel mixtures using the glass spark plug... 1, 2, 5, and 6 were easy to set and only needed minimal adjustment, but for some reason 3 and 4 are running rich and I can't get the flame blue enough... the screw on those is also very hard to reach. I think as they are not too bad I will leave them.

Now I am struggling with putting the air box back on the carbs using the new rubbers I bought. I just can't exert enough pressure to pop all three of them on at once.

Is there a smart way to do this?

Paul
 

McBoney wrote:

Now I am struggling with putting the air box back on the carbs using the new rubbers I bought. I just can't exert enough pressure to pop all three of them on at once.

Is there a smart way to do this?

Paul

 

If there is  - I havent found it. They're always a PITA

If the throttle bodies have been removed  from the Angle support: this can cause alignment issues you're experiencing.  Loosen the bolts (2 on each carb, ) fit the air-box to the carbs and then tighten those bolts.  To assist in the fitting of the rubbers - apply a bit of Silicone grease to the rubber seals.  You'll have to check the Sync as any new movement of the carbs - relative to each other,  may change your readings.

but for some reason 3 and 4 are running rich and I can't get the flame blue enough... the screw on those is also very hard to reach.

Apply some air pressure to the Mixing-Air ports  on the filter side.  This may clean out anything in them that's affecting the mixture adjustment. Applied PSI will not rupture anything !  
My "better" hunch is that the Enrichment piston is stuck in the closed position. I've seen these so "crudded-up", they'd barely move.  My option a year ago was to remove the diaphragms/pistons completely. You just have to make some simple solid gaskets for under the cover. This, along with a "tweak" on the ignition timing, a mod. to the pilot needles and an accurate "sync" gave me a significant increase in mileage with no adverse effects.
As for the pilot needles on the center carb .........convert them to a socket head. I've covered this several times.....if you look for it.  You'll kick your ass for not doing this right from the get-go!