TOPIC:

Is that bottom yoke aluminium? Have you got enough meat to machine a portion out for clearance? It's what I had to do on the billet bottom yoke on my 13 for the same.

It is and I think so, but I have to put in the bump stops anyway to protect the tank from the handlebars. And with those in it should be ok

Be mindful of the front fork compression travel !! With these types of mods, a fender can potentially strike the rad when Hard braking.

Thank you, I shall check that!

In the meantime I took the front end off and drilled and tapped two bump stops in the bottom yoke. Works perfectly, now a good clear 6 inches between the handlebars and the tank and the rad cap is clear.

Solved! (Now that is the fun bit from building something non-stock!)

With those new stops how much have they reduced the turning radius of the bike? ( in the picture they look quite big)

To be honest, I don't know. I never measured the possible lock with the old yoke - there are bump stops there as well, they are not big bolts, but welded tabs on the yoke.

The new ones look big, but they have been measured to go into the yoke at maximum 'allowable' lock. Also, as they are tapped into the aluminium I thought bigger would be stronger.

It is definitely less than on my KZ1000P. That can turn to ten and two o'clock. The KZ1300 can turn to 10 and a half and 1 and a half - if that makes sense.

I was going for a ride tomorrow on the KZ1000P and see how much I turn the bars in normal riding (which btw can also hit the tank on full lock as I put on straight bars rather than the original ones), but tbh, I have no choice. If (or rather when!) I get to finally ride the KZ1300 and the turning circle tuns out to be too little, it will be back to the drawing board. In the meantime I'll leave it as is and concentrate on the next big task, which is wiring.... (oh deep joy! )