TOPIC:

Well, my wiring harness is toast and I will have to start from scratch.

And as this is a custom build, none of the wires will be standard length and/or go to the standard places. There will be no side covers whatsoever and all the electrics will live deep in between the block and the swing arm cross brace. There will be some LED lighting (indicators and rear lights) and some of the standard KZ stuff I don't need/want (like self cancelling indicators, and reserve lighting etc) but the main reason I like this as it seems to cut down on the wiring - f.i. there is only one wire from all the front controls to the box as all the controls go into one M-Button and from there it sends digital pulses to the control unit... .

It IS overkill, but... so cool to be able to configure the system with your phone! And I like the fact that it has an alarm.

I'm glad to know that it actually works Tacklehappy. I would be very grateful if you could describe how the ignition circuit is wired...

Paul

I have not used any of the original Kawasaki electrical system except starter motor and stator.
The ignition is initiated with the Motogadget M-lock. It replaces the ignition key It is mounted in the original position of the ignition key. It is a three wire with an in-line fuse and enough wire to connect to the M-Unit. The black wire to ground, red to battery and brown to the m-unit. Ver straight forward . Watch the below video
This video from Revival Cycle will take you thru the process.
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If you buy any motogadget , make sure the seller , like Revival Cycle will take e-mails or phone calls for tech support.
Revzilla in the USA for instance is not one of those retailers.
I had trouble with pairing my phone to the m-unit- it got sorted directly with motogadet via e-mail.

As the above link shows, it comes with a fob which uses RFID technology- simply pass the fob over the M-Lock and the ignition turns on. If you go to Motogadgets web site they have all the install / wiring manuals you can download

Thank you for the advice.

I was also only going to use the starter motor (new coal brushes) and (a new) stator as they are 'part' of the engine. Same with pulse generator. I have also kept the original starter solenoid and I still have a few electrical boxes that I don't know what they do.

Looking for coils now as my original were not with the bike when I got it....

I shall do further research on the Motogadget and Revival websites etc, but I am still a while away from wiring the bike up, so when I start in earnest I'll be sure to be back here with updates and undoubtedly more questions!

Cheers
Paul

Just been looking at the wiring diagram of the A1 European version, I think I still need the following original bits:

IC Igniter
Regulator/rectifier (and type depends on what battery I decide on)

Correct or have you (tacklehappy) does something different?

Paul

That's right-you'll need the igniter oem.
The regulator you have a lot of options for. There's a lot of info on this site to answer that question.

If you have to buy a reg/rectifier you should jump at the Shindengen Sh847. An amazing series regulator reported to run the stator cooler dropinng the engine oil temp by as much as 30 deg F.
www.roadstercycle.com is the only reputable dealer for these. I've written a topic regarding these.