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TOPIC: 1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 11 months 1 week ago #21494

  • StanG
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Oil change done today again. It came out still semi clear, smelling good, and absolutely no solid elements in it of any kind, including inside of the filter. The gears are working very smooth, and there was literally no noticeable oil loss over the 700+ miles since the last change. I think the engine is braking in nicely and sealing real good.
Adjusted the clutch. So far very happy.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts

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Last edit: by StanG.

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 11 months 1 week ago #21499

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Absolutely... FUUU...me!!! Did the clutch adjustment. Back off, back in feeling getting tight. Anyway... Now I do have a rocket. 100 kilometers to test. No shit. Formula 1!!!! Unbelievable. The bike is insane. Even with a passenger, she holds onto me tight. Next Sunday carbs tune up and even more power. So far, fantastic!!!
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts
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Last edit: by StanG.

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 11 months 6 days ago #21501

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This sort of post brings me joy! Enthusiasm, shared with the forum users, confirming to those of us who have yet to experience this bike on the road, that we have much to look forward to. Very happy for you, Stan, and thanks for your hundreds of informative and entertaining posts.
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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 11 months 6 days ago #21505

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Thank you Biltonjim! Yes, it's not like reporting an actual ground mechanical work doing the rebuild, but a follow up is equally important and interesting. For anyone who followed this thread and looked at the photos, it shows that whatever I've done works in practice, so it's a good reference and guide. I wish I've posted more photos of detailing certain steps, as break down of overhauling the handlebar controls etc. But it's been overwhelming at times and I just didn't have the drive nor patience to photograph and edit. The project was 'gung ho' from start, as I had no agenda made. It had to evolve over time and I had to adopt and change my approach many times.

It was easier to adjust the clutch this time, after the new friction plates had broken in. I could feel when the adjusting screw gets tighter, and it's a bit 'mushy' for about half turn or so before getting tighter. So, I left it at about that half turn. The other two adjustments, on the cable itself, were easy - just making sure first the clutch cable is not tight and then that I have some play on the lever.

The bike has no problem starting cold after sitting for a week. At + 7 Celsius, it just comes to life during the first crank. I set the choke all the way up, and let it rung for about 30 seconds maybe until stabilizes. The air/fuel mixture is very rich, so there is some smoke coming out. At this moment I quickly push the choke lever down, the engines rpm's don't go up like they would if I'd do it slowly. I discovered it with practice - the key is to get the engine running with the enriched mixture, then quickly move it down closing the plungers and running only on air and fuel coming from the carbs as the operate normally. There is a 'sweet spot' then where the engine runs the most quiet and I found it to be at no more than 1500 rpm's or even less. One minute and the 'rattles' quiet down. Then, about five minutes watching the rpm's and adjusting the choke accordingly. If unattended, the rpm's would skyrocket beyond 5000, so it's absolutely crucial to never leave the bike unattended during a warm up.

One thing that is I'd say uncomfortable to operate are the front brakes. The bike stops quite sharp, even in emergency. But pulling the lever is quite hard. I guess that's how the bike was designed? I completely rebuilt the calipers (even installed one new piston), and the master cylinder. I was re-sleeved with stainless bore. SO, everything is brand new. But it's very stiff. I am thinking about installing an alternative lever, one of those adjustable and maybe there are even those with an extra leverage for easier actuation? Anyone have suggestions, links?

Another thing I am going to address is the seat height. The seat I have is original. It's incredibly comfortable! But, I can't put my feet fully flat on the road when stopped. Even when running, the bike keeps me on my tip toes! haha Literally. I can't lower the front forks due to the air holes, and nothing can be done with the oem rear shocks. So, the seat has to the solution. I am not going to touch the original Kawasaki seat. Before I got my hands on it, I was planning on making my own. I bought a beaten up king and queen seat off eBay, an aftermarket cover and was planning on making my own. The foam will be shaved to the lower profile, and this should solve my height problem.
I've already sand blasted the metal shell, and the two stress fractures are going to be welded and the areas strengthen with added extra metal. And it will get painted by a pro again :) Then stretching the cover over the foam, and it should be good to go. It will definitely feel safer with my feet firmly on the ground!

Anyone has suggestions regarding forming and stabilizing the old seat foam, and doing this in general?

Cheers,
Stan
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts

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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 11 months 5 days ago #21512

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have you searched evil-bay for Kawasaki Z1300 seat foam? See item 202411610846
1980 KZ1300 B2 Touring/A2
1990 ZZ-R1100

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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 11 months 5 days ago #21513

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I see an Eddie Lawson seat in your future



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eddie-Lawson-Original-Sports-Seat-All-parts-New-/260312121823

Or you could go completely retro and just wear some platform shoes out of the "70s :ohmy:


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