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TOPIC: 1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild

1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 4 months 4 weeks ago #23937

  • StanG
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Just came back from a quick ride to test again the bike after synchronizing and AFR adjustment. Starts, runs, accelerates, decelerates like a turbine! And I thought it was smooth! lol

0ne interesting thing I have done, before doing this, is I used Marvel Mystery 0il in fuel. I have been using Sea Foam on a regular basis, and it works great maintaining the carburetors. But a few days ago I finally saw a bottle of the Mystery 0il in stock at Lordco.So I bought a bottle. When doing the AFR adjustments I looked inside the cylinders - ALL shiny and clean!
I bet the same applies to the head and valves, if I could see them. The Sea Foam never did that. I saw a video where a guy compares both, and the Mystery 0il indeed cleans the chamber from carbon build up - it's confirmed. Also, the choke operates smoother, and I bet all the carburetor internal parts got a nice lubrication treatment from within as well.

Conclusion: the Sea Foam is great and definitely keeps the small fuel passages clean. But Marvel Mystery 0il does even more - it really cleans and lubricates. I became an instant fan and will be using it once in a while. Also, the Mystery 0il cost less and you get double the volume!
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts

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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 4 months 4 weeks ago #23946

  • StanG
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Lordco offers discount if you have an account, or ask. Not sure if for everyone, but I've been getting it.

I paid CAD$ 10.27 for 473 ml of Sea Foam, and CAD$ 7.75 for 946 ml of Marvel Mystery Oil. Considering how well the Marvel Mystery Oil worked, I will be buying the Sea Foam much less frequently, and stick to Mystery 0il treatment once every maybe 5 fill ups.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts
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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 4 months 4 weeks ago #23960

  • stocktoy
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I was in in Wallyworld (Wal Mart) today and found they sell Marvel Mystery Oil at least the one near me anyway $10.95 + tax for the 946 ml bottle

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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 4 months 4 weeks ago #23964

  • StanG
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That seems to be regular price, as here it's CAD$ 11.39 without discount.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts

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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 4 months 2 weeks ago #24082

  • StanG
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This showed up on Ebay. If anyone watched this, sorry - it's mine! :)

This was one of the small little details missing. I already have the bracket for it, the bike is one small step closer to be 100% stock. I will fit it but I think I will keep it off, as I don't want to have it damaged with a flying stone. Except for bike shows. It's just too nice. And I think this was a great deal as well.

1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts
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1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild 4 months 2 weeks ago #24089

  • StanG
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I've decided to revisit the cam chain tensioner. Right now I have a manual one installed and it's been fine. But after reading a lot of from people who are using the stock tensioner modified, I decided to do this modification as an exercise.

First, I carefully checked where the center of the back side of the housing is. Very easy, putting it on the table and giving it a spin. Like a spinning top.
Marked the center, and carefully drilled there a pinhole. Followed by larger drill bits, until the last one - 5 mm. Then cut a 6 mm thread and voila, it's ready. All freehand style :)

I decided to use a brass washer to protect the aluminum body of the tensioner, and also to use a self locking nut.



Before assembly. The pre-loaded spring is held with a nail.



The tensioner's push rod is held in place by a bolt. 0nce installed on the bike (with a thin paper gasket), I will release it and let it do it's job. Then - I will replace it with the original stopper bolt and screw the added limiter bolt in, securing it with the self-locking washer. The stopper bolt is not tight and has nothing to do with applying tension, so it will be very easy and accurate to screw in with fingers. I will back it off slightly on contact, maximum 1/4 - 1/2 turn.

So, the plan is to remove the manual tensioner and replace it with this modified Kawasaki stock. I will do it with the cam cover off, when also checking the valve clearances. I'd like to see how far it goes comparing to how I adjusted the manual one. After some more polishing that is!

Another thing to do will be to mark the different positions of the stopper bolt - all the way out, in, and the current position for reference. I will also measure it with calipers and keep track of the applied adjustment.

1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts
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The following user(s) said Thank You: ronlander

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