Cylinder sleeve removal / replacement

Kawboy wrote:

dcarver220b wrote:

How much for the Dalton sleeves?

Darton Sleeves  only make sleeves with bores larger than 3 inches, so not an option. I refer to them because they are at the forefront of wet sleeve design.

Melling? They go down to two inches according to website ..

"Melling Cylinder Sleeves stocks sleeves for a wide range of the most popular automotive applications, as well as sleeves for compressors, lawn care equipment, agricultural applications, and oil field equipment. Melling Cylinder Sleeves offers liners with a broad range of bore diameters, starting as small as 2” up to a very large 8.50” bore, and finished lengths ranging from 1/8” up to 24”. Sleeves are available in 3/32” and 1/8” wall for bore diameters up to 5-1/8”. Bore diameters larger than 5-1/8” are stocked only with 1/8” wall thickness. Melling Cylinder Sleeves also offers 1/16” and 2mm wall thickness’ for limited applications."

 

Here's a video

It's been a while but I thought I should continue this topic until close out

.

After removing the cylinders I found I have 6 cylinders that looked like this. Fugly !! 



After 10 minutes of cleanup with 100 grit resin sandpaper we now have this.

Many wet sleeve suppliers offer Parkerizing finishes on the outside of the sleeves for corrosion protection, which is better than nothing, Parkerizing has been used since the 1800's to improve carbon steel items for corrosion protection. Now it does this by etching the surface with phosphoric acid and bonding either zinc or manganese to the surface. The actual corrosion protection is done by oiling the surface and the parkerizing helps by opening up the pores in the metal to hold in the oil. So I had originally thought that Parkerizing was the way to go until my research took me in another direction.

I went looking for a coating that could-
Withstand immersion in coolant
Have enough hardness to withstand the coolant circulation and not be worn off the surface of the sleeve
Have a high thermal emissivity ( the ability to transfer heat readily)

In the world of guns, rifles, revolvers etc. Parkerizing was the standard and then along came Cerakote ceramic coatings. In discussion with Cerakote technical support, they advised me that their Cerakote Elite Series E-100 blackout would meet all of my requirements, so I have ordered a pint of this product to "experiment " with. The cylinder sleeves will need to be sand blasted with 100 grit aluminum oxide, then coated , then oven cured at 350 deg F. for 1 hour. Should be interesting. 

Cerakote E100 Blackout ceramic coating

In your opinion, what caused that build up on the liners?  Is it inevitable in an engine of such age, or is due to incorrect or insufficient antifreeze / coolant? 

biltonjim wrote:

In your opinion, what caused that build up on the liners?  Is it inevitable in an engine of such age, or is due to incorrect or insufficient antifreeze / coolant? 

I can only speculate on this. What I found was a loose flaky, furry rust like substance. Once I got down to "bare metal" I saw no signs of pitting which leaves me curious. This crud was also found up near the top flange which tells me that the upper o-ring had failed on all 6 cylinders and the head gasket was holding the possible leak points. This makes me comfortable for going with oversize sleeves for a 66mm bore which would bring the displacement to 1457cc.and at some point down the road, I will go ahead with this mod on a second cylinder block that I have and 6 pistons from a KZ750 4 cylinder engine.

Back to your question- Antifreeze has anticorrosion properties which will neutralize over time. Most antifreeze say they are good for 5 years or 100,000 Km. I never go beyond 3 years before changing. I believe in the "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" theory.

Corrosion was also found on the water pump shaft and the shaft material was not as forgiving as the cylinder sleeves. The shaft is ruined and I will machine up a new shaft out of 304 stainless after I finish with the cylinder sleeve recondition / installation. I also have a mod in mind for the water pump impeller mount to the shaft which I will cover in another topic. The current mount is too flimsy and allows the impeller to float on the shaft and only the mechanical seal is left holding the impeller true to the shaft. Another faulty design in my mind.

Every time I look at the next part refurbishment on this bike I come up with more design issues. Back in my early life, if I came across "parts wearing out" type issues I would just shrug and buy new parts and put them in. Now, me being me, I question "why" the part failed and try to determine if it was a part failure, design failure or a maintenance failure and I seem to keep coming up with design failures. Oh well, I will keep moving forward and sharing my findings and resolve as I go. Enjoy !!

Thank you for the information, Kawboy. It will be useful knowledge for when / if I restore my own 1300 A4.