TOPIC:

strate6 wrote: OK,
2). When the spring is cut 10mm shorter............the black rubber roller DOES NOT wear away at any rate noticeable & chain shows no more signs of wear.

3). All of this tested & proven with may last 6 Z1300's & 3 close friends bikes too.

Pete F

What I see here is that possibly the spring is coil binding at the tension it needs to get the correct tension on the cam chain and roller where when you shorten the spring the spring is a bit stiffer and does not coil bind so giving the tensioner and chain a bit of give.
It may just be that because the tensioner is from a different model that the distance it is pushed back into the housing makes it coil bind right at the start and the damage the extra tension does to the roller and chain makes it wear quickly at the initial stages and so sets in motion a rapid wear rate because of damage done.
Please I am not questioning you knowledge of the bikes. Although I have owned one from new I really have had very little experience on them because my bike gave me very little trouble and for years my job was Hondas and then onto BMW K series. I was fairly much isolated from the Kawasaki scene. Mind Honda Australia didn't like one of their top mechanics riding a Kawasaki Six and tried for years to get me on a Honda, so much that it became a game with me and them.

I believe that by cutting 10mm from the spring it just lessens the preload pressure of the spring on the plunger. Just like adding or removing spacers to adjust preload in conventional front forks - you're not changing spring rate, just the resting tension the spring applies to its surrounding parts.

It works

Could you please tell me where you purchased your tensioner? This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.