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Installing a manual cam chain tensioner. 10 years 11 months ago #713

  • KZQ
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I recently purchased and installed a manual cam chain tensioner on my 1300. The instructions say to turn the adjusting bolt in, while rotating the crank forward, till you feel the tensioner contact the moving cam chain and then back off a quarter turn. I did my best to do just as instructed but I had no faith that I had the best adjustment I could achieve. In order to be sure I removed the cam cover and adjusted the tensioner till there was no slack on the back side of the chain and then backed off a quarter turn. The difference was FIVE more turns! I've run the bike about five hundred miles since then with no problems.

How many other owners have installed manual tensioners?

Thoughts?
Comments?

Bill
1947 Indian Chief, 1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 Kawasaki W3, 1976 KZ900 A4, 1979 KZ750 B4, 1979 KZ750 B4 Trike, 1980 KZ550, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1985 Kawasaki ZN1300, 1987 Yamaha Trail Way, 2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1981 GL 1100, 2009 Yamaha RoadLiner S

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Installing a manual cam chain tensioner. 10 years 11 months ago #715

  • steelwhisperer
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I usually rock mine back and forth in 2nd gear while turning the adjuster,and kinda feel for that spot where the slack is out all around but not a lot of tension on the adjuster.just seemed like the way to do it.But I pulled the cam cover the first few times just to make sure.

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Last edit: by steelwhisperer. Reason: had more

Installing a manual cam chain tensioner. 10 years 11 months ago #717

  • wrgoo56
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I have done this on cars before so what I did was run the adjustment bolt in till it got tight then rocked the crank back and forth as I put tension on the bolt. It when about one half turn more. Then I backed it off a 1/4 of a turn. Worked fine.

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Installing a manual cam chain tensioner. 10 years 11 months ago #720

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Its VITAL that when you feel the tensioner bolt up against the tensioner itself, that you back it off 1/4 turn then tighten lock nut (as mentioned above)
This is to allow for heat expansion when the engine is hot & running & to allow a LITTLE bit of play.

You cannot really go wrong with a manual tensioner (as long as bolt or lock nut does not come loose), but the ZZR1100 tensioner does an equal job, but just keeps tensioning as the chain slowly stretches with age & use.

Put a little blob of clear silicon where the lock nut meets the bolt to stop it coming loose & to be able to see it has not loosened.

Pete F
Why Have Four When You Can Have Six ?

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Installing a manual cam chain tensioner. 10 years 10 months ago #1039

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So, since you have done this, what year and model automatic tensioner will replace my original unit? I really don't want to put in a manual tensioner. I have a 79 A1 model bike.
Thanks

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Installing a manual cam chain tensioner. 10 years 10 months ago #1042

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peard wrote: So, since you have done this, what year and model automatic tensioner will replace my original unit? I really don't want to put in a manual tensioner. I have a 79 A1 model bike.
Thanks


Hi Peard,

ZX-11 tensioner - Part # 12048-1113, Tensioner gasket - Part # 11009-1858. The spring is a bit too stout and the common wisdom is to shorten it by about 10 MM. I measured the stock tensioner spring pressure at six pounds. As you read in the end I went with the manual tensioner made by APE.

Hey if I rode this thing as a commuter, I might choose one of the automatic models but my 1300 is a toy with which I like to play.

Bill
1947 Indian Chief, 1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 Kawasaki W3, 1976 KZ900 A4, 1979 KZ750 B4, 1979 KZ750 B4 Trike, 1980 KZ550, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1985 Kawasaki ZN1300, 1987 Yamaha Trail Way, 2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1981 GL 1100, 2009 Yamaha RoadLiner S

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