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Well: I never would guessed "in a Million Years" that there would be a meter jet buried in that manner. An reason which validates a "Flushing" method to remove varnish and debris and why it needs to be done several times per venturi !

Thanks for this info and the initiative to dig deeper ! Wonder if there are other metering jets that are otherwise "invisible' ?

Hi Scotch i haven't found any other build in metering ports within the channels, i found that the metering ports in the towers can and will get blocked very likely because the channel after them is going upwards and the one before too, so anything that is going through the main jet can over time settle there. The debris i manage to remove from there looked to me like very fine rust particles stack together, probably because the tank rusted quiet badly and of consistency just like the scale in the cattle or so. Yeah, in case of need of further information i have the carb body lying on the desk, so any time i can make photos and post them in case anyone need to have look at it. The one part i did not remove is the chock brass pipe with small jet on the bottom end.

Hi, I have the same problem. These Zs simply do not start after a few days of non use, my US kz was exactly the same. The problem I have just solved concerned spitting through the carbs at just above idle. I suspected the float levels as the mixtures had been good enough before I changed the needles. I was glad to find the right hand carb fuel level was 3-4 mm low, this was indicated by whiteish plugs on numbers five and six. I have set all carbs to 7 mm from the mating face between the float bowl and carb body. The level checker is made from a nitro model exhaust deflector and some nitrile pipe. The float bowl has to be drained first and this fits perfectly over the drain plug mounting point.

One question with float level tube method, when I checked mine I took carbs off made a wooden cradle so I could get level front to back & side to side ( even checked with little boat level - ) now I'm thinking on the bike the carbs are not level does this matter with my check??

Regarding setting the float-level and "how level do they need to be?"
YES, the carbs when mounted are at (about) a 5 degree tilt DOWN towards the engine. NOT an issue ! A "Leveling Cradle" is a good idea. Any manner of holding the carb(s) steady and level on the bench is a necessity ! I have two methods for doing this depending on whether I'm adjusting the float levels with the carbs as a complete set or individually. This is how I hold a "set". The Carb-mount needs matching two holes.

Could you scotch mention the 'obvious' again about the correct float level?