TOPIC:

Well I guess i'd better get in and be the first to ask some dumb questions, I ain't the greatest bike mechanic but I can muddle thru, I've made heaps of boo boo's with the 1300, and I've had a steep learning curve, at least when I make a mistake, not only does it cost me heaps in parts to fix it, but I know not to do that again, we won't go into some of the dumb things I've done, too embarrassing

ok questions....

I have put some new pipes on as you might have seen in another post, I see a post about "re-jetting" to suit the pipes, why? and is it that important, could you explain more please, I have gotten the float levels down to where they should be, they were all over the gasket line, also I use plain old unleaded down here, 91 octane, no alcohol in it, so is that ok for the 13 or should I use a little higher octane ?

I bought a set of gauges to balance the carbies, a Pro set of the Morgan carbtune (4 gauges), also got one of those Colortune plugs, ain't that a fun and interesting gizmo, handy also. Ok the question ... is there a level that you would set the carbies at on the gauges ?, or do you just balance them, at present all the carbies are level at the 18 mark (or very close to it), is that too high ?, I mean is there a low level that you'd try and set it at for the 13, is the 18 too high and means that the slides are moving open and the bike is getting fuel not only from the idle jets but thru the mains ?

There does seem to be a small dead spot when going from idle to a faster speed, open the throttle and if you do it slow then you notice the dead spot, open quick and it's not too noticeable, any ideas why, or is it still jetting or balance of the carbies, the colortune plug shows good burn in all the cylinders at idle, so i'm stumped

I have heaps of spares, probably 3 full sets of carbies, another spare motor in a frame, another spare crank and bits, I had a "short" motor (no head)spare that I stripped to use the cases and the secondary shaft after that bearing went on me, so if I need to rebuild a set of carbies I can, even though I have put kits that I got from Germany thru the set on the bike at present, but silly me never looked at what size the main jets were before I put them in.

I have the standard air box and air filter on my bike, in fact the whole thing is almost re-stored to original bits and pieces, except for the pipes, can't get a good set of originals for love or money, but I like the sound of the 6 into one, although this new set is pretty quiet compared to the old set I took off that didn't have and baffles in it. Oh yes the last question ... is having the original air box also stuff up the jetting or is it ok because of the box and not "pod" filters ???

Ok I think I've rambled enough, hope there isn't any questions that are too stupid, I like to ask people who know this stuff otherwise i'd never learn, cheers and thanks for your time, Pete.

I've looked everywhere, there are tips on how to balance the carbies, but no info on what they should be set at, here's the gauges when idling after the adjustment, well I did get them a bit closer after the photo

You Tube video of the gauges

kza13 wrote: Well I guess i'd better get in and be the first to ask some dumb questions, I ain't the greatest bike mechanic but I can muddle thru, I've made heaps of boo boo's with the 1300, and I've had a steep learning curve, at least when I make a mistake, not only does it cost me heaps in parts to fix it, but I know not to do that again, we won't go into some of the dumb things I've done, too embarrassing

ok questions....

I have put some new pipes on as you might have seen in another post, I see a post about "re-jetting" to suit the pipes, why? and is it that important, could you explain more please, I have gotten the float levels down to where they should be, they were all over the gasket line, also I use plain old unleaded down here, 91 octane, no alcohol in it, so is that ok for the 13 or should I use a little higher octane ?

I bought a set of gauges to balance the carbies, a Pro set of the Morgan carbtune (4 gauges), also got one of those Colortune plugs, ain't that a fun and interesting gizmo, handy also. Ok the question ... is there a level that you would set the carbies at on the gauges ?, or do you just balance them, at present all the carbies are level at the 18 mark (or very close to it), is that too high ?, I mean is there a low level that you'd try and set it at for the 13, is the 18 too high and means that the slides are moving open and the bike is getting fuel not only from the idle jets but thru the mains ?

There does seem to be a small dead spot when going from idle to a faster speed, open the throttle and if you do it slow then you notice the dead spot, open quick and it's not too noticeable, any ideas why, or is it still jetting or balance of the carbies, the colortune plug shows good burn in all the cylinders at idle, so i'm stumped

I have heaps of spares, probably 3 full sets of carbies, another spare motor in a frame, another spare crank and bits, I had a "short" motor (no head)spare that I stripped to use the cases and the secondary shaft after that bearing went on me, so if I need to rebuild a set of carbies I can, even though I have put kits that I got from Germany thru the set on the bike at present, but silly me never looked at what size the main jets were before I put them in.

I have the standard air box and air filter on my bike, in fact the whole thing is almost re-stored to original bits and pieces, except for the pipes, can't get a good set of originals for love or money, but I like the sound of the 6 into one, although this new set is pretty quiet compared to the old set I took off that didn't have and baffles in it. Oh yes the last question ... is having the original air box also stuff up the jetting or is it ok because of the box and not "pod" filters ???

Ok I think I've rambled enough, hope there isn't any questions that are too stupid, I like to ask people who know this stuff otherwise i'd never learn, cheers and thanks for your time, Pete.

Hi Pete,

I know my way around an engine, pretty much, but I'm glad I don't have to make a living at it. I'll take a crack at your questions. I'm sure there are others out there more experienced than me. So if I get off course too much someone set me straight.

So far I've been fortunate in that I've not broken anything significant. However I have muddled around with these carbs too long.

Regarding rejetting. I had to rejet my 1300 after I installed the same exhaust system you have. If your bike is running well and the color tune plugs are not telling you it's too lean, you're probably good to go. If not these folks have what you need: www.dynojet.com/jetkits/ The stock mains are 110's. The next time I pull the carbs I'm going to go with 100's for the mains and the clip in the third notch. I think that'll get me sorted out, but I've thought that before.

I looked around for the fuel octane specification but couldn't find one in either the owner's or service manuals.

I believe the goal of the carb sync adjustment is to get equal numbers whatever they may be.

Your small deadspot might be an indication of a lean condition in the idle circuit. The starting adjustment for the idle screws is 1 3/4 turns from seated. Mine are at 4 turns out. I believe the conventional wisdom is 3 1/2 turns.

Regarding the intake, leave it alone! Unless you really have to.

The air box is your friend. It also convinces your three sets of twins to get along. Go ahead and put a higher flow filter if you want but keep the airbox if at all possible.

Hope this helps.

Bill

Thanks mate, takes a load off my mind, took ages to find the bits to make one complete air box, seems everyone put air pods on and threw the air box away in the "old" days.
I still can't understand why there isn't a "minimum" setting for the vacuum gauges, the ideal sweet spot, I think about it and it makes me wonder, logic tells me that if you set it "high" then the vacuum will raise the slides, so that's why I asked about it. There just has to be a setting somewhere that you would try and get the flow right, or else the higher the vacuum the higher the slides would be, it's just how they work. If there isn't a setting to try for then what would stop you putting it anywhere you want to ???, still confused
I'll do a bit of an investigation into what size jets I put in when I did the carbies, the needles are stainless and the clip is in the center slot, so alls well, fingers crossed. I'll do a bit of a tune again this weekend if I get a chance, when I did the stem seals I did do the shims after I put the head back on, she had new valves put in a while back and I thought i'd check the shims as the new valves should of bedded in better by now, always good to check these things when you have the time or get a chance to.
Thanks again for the encouragement and help, always good to talk to another 13 owner as there ain't too many of us around, well not down under anyway, cheers Pete.

Hi Pete,

Getting the flow right isn't important. Getting the three carbs to flow the same amount of air is. I believe the vacuum is supposed to be within 2 pounds of each other.

When adjusting the sync on these carbs we don't really care about the absolute vacuum. It changes every time you open or close the throttle. All we care about is that as the vacuum changes each carb experiences the same amount of vacuum.

Bill